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Routes in 4 - Second Alcove

Ears to You T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I Be Jammin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Face It T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
O.U.L.D. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quoia the Destroya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Jack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Vogl, Griffin 1985
Page Views: 3,747 total, 36/month
Shared By: outdooreric on Jun 4, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

An excellent crack line on the right side of the 2nd alcove. An awkward crux with a wide crack which can be stemmed around down low is protected well with a 4" piece. Continue to the awesome hand crack in the corner above. A second crux is encountered near the top.

This is rated 5.10a in my old guide, but I found it to be quite easy for the grade. 5.9 is more accurate.

Location

The right side of the 2nd alcove, just left of a medium sized pine tree.

Protection

1-2 each .75-3" cams, 4" for the start. Bolted anchor.

Photos

e.diddy  
I'm a pretty strong 5.9 climber and this routes feels difficult to me. 510a for sure. But I have heard the 5.9 argument from many different partners... Jun 25, 2013
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10a
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10a
Great route. If The Perfect Lieback is 5.8, Quoia is 5.9, this is 10a for sure. Oct 29, 2012
pffffft, the grade was written, therefore it must be....In honor of Bill and Sigi...very cool dudes imo... Jan 28, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The true grade is a head scratcher, but I can vouch it is harder than the 5.6 it appears to be from the ground. I could see it as either a hard-ish 5.9/easy 5.10a. Certainly, the top is a nice little jam workout. Dec 28, 2010
Bill Kelly
Lake Tahoe
  5.10
Bill Kelly   Lake Tahoe
  5.10
For what it's worth, first time up I found it as hard, if not harder, than I.O.U.D. That's right. Then I shifted technique, and it eased up on the second go. Stout lead for 5.10a. Here I refer to an 8' section just before the top. Good pro tho so go for it. Lower down, felt like 5.9. I'm working this one into my "Woodfords Circuit."

EDIT to ADD: Okay, I changed my mind. Hard 5.9. I must've been soft, fat, out-of-shape, or just feeling old the time I wrote the aforementioned. So ignore it. Apr 24, 2010
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
  5.10a
"I be jammin" is 5.10a for sure, great hand & finger jams the whole way! Jan 18, 2010
I be Jammin' is probabally the easiest 5.10a in Woodfords... but it's still 5.10a. Milt Nov 27, 2009
Ryan Curry
  5.10a
Ryan Curry  
  5.10a
It might be splitting hairs but I think it may be more accurate to call it 5.10a. There's a bit of awkwardness low and also some devious moves higher that may be a bit stout for a 5.9 leader. Regardless of the grade I agree that it's an outstanding pitch. Four stars. Jun 6, 2009