Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bill Griffin of Gardnerville, early 1980s
Page Views: 8,577 total · 71/month
Shared By: Rick D on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

60 Opinions

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If you walked up the sandy approach trail, this route will be just on your right. The first half is lie backing up a slab. The crack turns verticle at half way point, this is were the crux is.


This is to the east of the alcove area's and to the west of the sun wall


Gear to 2". Chains at the top.


Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
I found the crux to be the start.

Takes mainly #.4-2 Camalots and I used a couple large nuts. Apr 26, 2009
Reno, NV
slk   Reno, NV
My first lead and one sweet line. I think the crux is at the bottom but depending on your height it could be where the line goes vertical. Being 6 foot the vertical section was not that tough. Also, some really nice nut placements at the rests. Jan 26, 2011
Ron Anderson  
First Ascent of this CLASSIC was Bill Griffin, from Gardnerville in the ealry eighties! Jun 18, 2011
Not quite perfect IMHO.

Needs to be longer! :D Dec 12, 2011
Jeff Schroeder
Minneapolis, MN
Jeff Schroeder   Minneapolis, MN
Great route. Quite an approach. Don't forget that since the route is mainly lieback, it can be tricky to inspect your placements. There is a great rest in the middle of route. It is a great opportunity to set a couple bomber placements before finishing the route. Feb 18, 2013
Connor Newman
Denver, CO
Connor Newman   Denver, CO
I agree with the comments above that the crux is at the start, mainly because of the relative lack of feet and not being able to look at your gear. The moves up top are pretty easy, and you have a rest and bomber gear to do them unlike the laybacking at the start. May 6, 2013
Tele Liz
Corvallis, OR
Tele Liz   Corvallis, OR
Agree that the crux is off the ground (no feet and tough to look for placement). Too many good feet when the climb turns vertical. I think it might be the only climb in Woodfords to truly have gotten "traffic." The bottom section is turning glossy where you put your feet~ good rubber helps! Jun 18, 2014
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
I've seen 5.10+ leaders get pumped out placing too much pro down low. The good locks are there and you can spot your first placement from the ground. Don't over think it and relax. You've got this. Jun 19, 2014
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
Yup, crux is the first 25 feet. If you got the huevos just run it out and cruz right up to a nice ledge rest stop to plug in pro. After that the route is cake. Oct 30, 2015
N California
grabski   N California
If only it was longer. Anywhere else and there would be a line of people waiting for it. Oct 24, 2016
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
Anyone know what the bolted arete to roof just to the right is? It looks really good but the moves off the ground appear stupid hard. Maybe a big stack of cheater stones... Jan 30, 2018