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Routes in One Of These Days Buttress

Bush League T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Diamond T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Little Miss Manners T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Livin' A Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Of These Days T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pictures of Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: J. Smith, Banny Root, and P. Crawford
Page Views: 1,043 total, 12/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Oct 22, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Essentially, a face climb with a smidgen of placement opportunities mixed in. You will find technical climbing between seams, knobs, and the occasional finger jam. Fancy feet and iron fingers will see you through this gem. It heads straight up to the anchors shared with Bush League.

Location

Just right of Bush League and a few climbs right of One of These Days

Protection

Thin, intermittent pro. Honestly, being a mere mortal, I only toproped it. An onsight lead would be spicy, to say the least.

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Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11d PG13
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11d PG13
I lead it clean, onsight a couple years ago. The lower third of the route you need to be careful, but after that it's pretty strait forward gear wise. You just have to look for the small nut placements and be willing to climb above them. Thought it was a little spicy, but certainly not an X route, or even really an R.

And yeah you have to be solid .12a/b climber. It's a thin 5.11++ with fiddly small gear. It's not some down stream weenie roast clip up. Nov 9, 2013
The two I watched climb it yesterday seemed to have no problem finding gear that they felt comfortable climbing above and falling on. It was thin, but in their words, totally bomber. If this is you climbing ping me for the originals.



Jun 24, 2013
The moves on this are all there but the gear leaves something to be desired. If you like tinkering you way up a route with small nuts and thin cams than this is a good lead otherwise TR it. Aug 5, 2011