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Routes in 8 - Sun Wall Area

First Crux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sun Wall Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sun Wall Middle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sun Wall Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,815 total, 28/month
Shared By: urs on Jul 24, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

This beautiful and sustained finger crack follows a awkward offwidth crack into a clean splinter finger crack up a smooth head wall. With pefect finger locks and lye backs, this is by far one of the best cracks i have done!!!
There are 2 ways of doing this climb which are:
1. Start from the left and traverse to the right into the finger crack
2. Or take the direct start on the tricky offwidth that makes the 10c grade pretty stiff. Though definitly the best choice if ur up for a challenge.

Location

This route is located around the corner to right of The Perfect Lyeback 5.8.

Protection

A standard rack from nuts, tcu's, and friends to 3 inchs should do fine and there is a bolted anchor with open cold shuts at the top.
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
I thought I had average size hands/fingers for a dude but that upper finger crack was like off-fingers for me. I was finger stacking and had problems staying in. Oct 30, 2015
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.10+
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.10+
My favorite climb so far at Woodfords.. a mix of everything. Do the direct (wide) start. Don't need anything bigger than one #3, one #2 and otherwise small stuff. Feb 5, 2013
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Did the left hand variation. The hardest move comes right before the ledge, with the last obvious pro well below your feet. Had to move in some uncommon ways to make it work, but it was great! Jan 22, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10+
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10+
Absolutely classic and quite stiff. Did the left hand variation, bring #4's. Oct 27, 2012
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a great route, solid for the grade, and requiring many climbing techniques to reach the anchors. Jay Smith had a visionary eye for great routes. May 18, 2010
The first ascent of this classy pitch, as well as the 5.10b just right of it, were made by Jay Smith and friends in the '80's. Both are pretty stiff at their respective grades.
One of my favorite climbs on the Sun Wall is a long 5.10a chimney on the far right side of the cliff. A little run-out, it offers chimney to hands on impeccable stone and is super classic. Aug 28, 2009