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Routes in One Of These Days Buttress

Bush League T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Diamond T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Little Miss Manners T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Livin' A Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Of These Days T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pictures of Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Karl McConachie
Page Views: 6,003 total · 59/month
Shared By: Bill Kelly on Sep 3, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The crux: It's probably the sustained climbing esp after pulling the roof.

What's good: (a) it's well protected, (b) it's varied- from finger cracks to roof to hand jambs to overhang to chimney- a little (or a lot) of everything for 115', (c) it's got an anchor with chains so you can top rope it with a 70m.

Location

One Of These Days is located on the north side of the buttress.

Protection

Trad. Pro to 2.5". Anchor with chains. No protection bolts.

Photos

Matt Carroll  
 
completely classic. Well worth the trip out! Aug 3, 2017
almostrad
Lake Tahoe
almostrad   Lake Tahoe
Now equipped with fixed steel biners at the chains. Feel free to TR on them. Aug 12, 2016
Bill Kelly
Lake Tahoe
 
Bill Kelly   Lake Tahoe
 
Really? Three stars? lol Aug 6, 2016
fivefun
5.10c
fivefun  
5.10c
Wow. Incredible route. Absolutely one of the top 5.10 pitches I have ever climbed. 10c for sure! Jul 3, 2016
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Super cool route; don't know what Branden is talking about upthread! I climbed it, and then I immediately climbed it again. And I'm sure I'll be back to climb it some more!

Feels hard for the grade, but probably isn't a sandbag. It's just sustained and steeper than your average 5.10 trad climb, so the top half feels quite tiring. Lots of good jugs, jams, and gear though. Oct 19, 2015
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
It's crazy that locals in the Tahoe area aren't hitting this in droves. Every time I've been to the area, no one is lining up for this route, in fact usually we are the only car in the canyon.... Gotta love woodfords.

If you're 5.11 this thing is just gonna cruise at perfect .10 the whole way for you. If you've climbed it before, it's going to feel like perfect .10 for you.

If you climb .10, and have bought into the deserved hype of this route, then your OS attempt is going to be absolutely on you the whole way. A proud onsight for the 5.10 climber for sure. Unfortunately I am not in that OS club.

Get on this route right now! May 31, 2014
RDA
RDA  
there is NOTHING that needs to be cleaned from this route.. It has had 10,000 ascents by now... Jan 23, 2013
Kenny Thompson
Cottage grove oregon
Kenny Thompson   Cottage grove oregon
Nice petroglyph Jun 30, 2012
Bill Kelly
Lake Tahoe
 
Bill Kelly   Lake Tahoe
 
"really should be considered for removal"

Matt, thought-provoking comment. I've had the same concern regarding this flake myself over the years but ultimately concluded its presence adds to the route character and therefore (esp in the absence of changed conditions, e.g., obvious looseness, etc.) ought to stay. Seems to me it is a so-called God-hold and its absence could likely change things considerably in that section.

FWIW, my take: (1) Since it already looks tenuous, climbers won't yard on it. (2) There are places to belay this route at least on top rope that are not in the direct fall-line. (3) Responsible leaders (those likely to be leading this route) tend to lead responsibly - calling out suspect fragile or loose flakes to the belayer as needed and using caution around them.

Glad you liked the route! Jun 28, 2012
Matt Twyman
Austin, TX
Matt Twyman   Austin, TX
no joke on the 70m. my slightly chopped 70 didn't exactly reach. Had to tie in on the upper boulder then stretch it down to the start for TR.

What a freaking classic line. Wonderfully sustained with a few moderate cruxes. Pulling the roof isn't as bad as it may look. Most fun. Really just holding out through the end is the crux. Great power-endurance trainer!

Only a few sections with suspect rock (the undercling flake, just before the obvious giant flake, really should be considered for removal. Big enough to really do damage to anyone below or even cut the rope if it went. I put a big chalk "X" on it to at least make new travelers aware that it's questionable.

Incredibly sustained and anyone who leads this deserves some giant feathers in their cap. Alex Mellon told me he plugged ~ 25 pieces. Good lord. Jun 28, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This route reminded me a lot of Lunatic Fringe. A number of different 5.10 moves separated by great rests, long pitch. I think where the crux is on both routes is going to depend on your personal strengths as a climber, but I did feel the individual crux moves on Lunatic were harder, but that the rests on Lunatic were better since that route isn't as steep as These Days. Pretty similar in overall feel, and both routes eat stoppers. Oct 4, 2011
A fun route but I wouldn't call it the "best in Tahoe area", It's not a route I'd climb again..Been there done that. Aug 5, 2011
Ron Anderson  
 
I was up there in the early ninties with Dano and Tom Gilje- who hadnt been up there before, he led it with three pieces i think...His feet even blew above the roof wayyyy out from pro- Dano looked over and said "hes a freekin NUT"...took him maybe five minutes.. Jan 28, 2011
One of the best single pitches at the grade that I've ever done! Sustained and pumpy, but just when you need them a bomber fingerlock or handjam or jug will appear, keeping it from ever getting really desperate. Jun 10, 2010
THE BEST 5.10 crack in the Tahoe area. A must do for the 5.10 leader. Take care in lowering from the chains even with a 70 meter rope, it's close. Sep 6, 2009