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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Eric Barrett, John Bowlin, R. Orevitz, 1977.
Page Views: 11,631 total, 86/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

This climbs an overhanging knobby wall, with a thin crack at the top.
This climb faces west.

Protection

Thin, slings to tie off knobs.
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
This climb would probably warrant four stars regardless of whether or not the climbing was any good, just based on how ridiculously cool the features are.

Luckily for us, it climbs great, is on an ever so slightly overhung face, in a gorgeous Tahoe setting, and takes a plumb line straight up the face of the easily accessible Middle Spire.

When they are classic in Tahoe, they are classic...

Crux was definitely the lower reach between chicken heads for me. There is a great rest before committing to the moves to get to the next set of knobs if you find it, helped me a ton! Sep 24, 2013
Matt Twyman
Austin, TX
Matt Twyman   Austin, TX
I can't fathom how this route would receive anything less than the max # of stars. Absolute joy to lead. The combination of a wonderful setting, fun moves in a funky head space, wild protection on/in perfect stone and reasonable height make this a definitive classic in my mind. I couldn't wait to get on this and was so psyched to onsite it. Felt like I should be paying for this much fun.

4ft runners are ideal for slinging. those aren't really knobs or chicken heads... more like bowling balls. I'd only brought two 4 footers and ended up having to girth two 2-footers together on the upper bowling balls. Crack doesn't climb like one at all. Very sporty but there are tons of great places for rather small gear (BD 0.1 red cams and green nuts). I plugged in 3 pieces because whenever I looked up I got spooked by the appearance of that small crack and thinking it was going to be really cruxy, but it never really was. Rather odd to have to anchors so far left, but understand the desire to have a single set for both routes. The traverse out to them is chill and you at least get to finish on one hell of a jug. Jun 28, 2012
Michael Dom  
 
Amusing because of the crazy protrusions but I found the finish to be less than stellar. Dec 13, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
As long as you didn't pinch a loaf. Nov 16, 2013
Rennie Putnam
Davis, CA
 
Rennie Putnam   Davis, CA
 
I ate a sandwich while sitting on the big knob. Nov 6, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I kept waiting for that upper crux and never really found it. Having a few micro cams kept the pro pretty reasonable between the horizontal break and the finger crack up top. I thought the committing reach between two of the huge knobs down low was the crux.

This climb is unique to my experience, something I'd recommend for any climber in the 5.10 trad range. Dec 15, 2011
will smith
boulder
will smith   boulder
Thanks for the pics. This is one of the most memorable routes you'll ever do. I often mention this route when using chicken heads for pro.
A route you'll never forget. Oct 31, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
classic! Big reaches between giant muffin-tops. Don't pay any attention to Supertopo gear beta. Bring a few finger and smaller-than-finger sized cams and SMALL nuts for the horizontal cracks above the knobs and for the vertical crack, also bring one #1 for the bigger crack at the top.

Crux is moving into the vertical crack at the top of the route. Don't be fooled by the crack though, the climbing is mostly face climbing with a small nut sized crack for pro. Aug 24, 2009
PumpkinEater
Sacramento
 
PumpkinEater   Sacramento
 
This route gave me that "Holy @#$%!" feeling I only get on truly great routes. Five stars! Jun 24, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The wildest climb on the Middle Spire. Make sure you have 4 3-4 ft slings ready to tie off the bowling ball sized knobs. An unforgettable climb...

A #2 camalot could be placed after the 30ft 5.4 runout. The largest piece that you will place on the upper section is a green alien. The thin crack is the perfect size for a couple #3 ballnuts. Oct 6, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
This is a memorable route, I remember knobs as big as fire hydrants. You can mantle up one and then sit on it! A wild one. Oct 18, 2006