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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,666 total · 11/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Fingerlocks and some awkward jamming are the name of the game. Would be one of Tahoe's best splitter cracks of its grade if it weren't so contrived. You can use the wall to the right most of the way for your feet making the route much easier. Staying off this wall makes it classic and hard. You get forced off the (stem) wall by the time you hit the crux but it makes it a whole lot easier. Endurance is the real crux had the right wall not been there. I don't know, seems a bit contrived. Still a really good "laser cut" splitter that is a challenge no matter how you choose to climb it.


Just to the left of Lean and Mean on Middle Spire. You'll know it because its the only splitter that goes up a dead vertical to overhanging wall at a slight (right) leaning angle.


Cams .5"-2" Nuts


This is a good TR after you do Lean and Mean or any number of routes that go by LaM anchors... Mar 10, 2007
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
According to a Tahoe local this route was done in the early 80's and was called Deep Freeze. Apr 23, 2008
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
The name Deep Freeze came about because the FA was done in February. (brrr!) Jun 10, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Cool but contrived. Dec 10, 2011
Michael Dom  
The last ten feet are fun, the rest not so much. Sep 7, 2016
abandon moderation   Tahoe
Great climb. It's one of the few 5.11s at the spires that you can lead without clipping any bolts. May 21, 2017

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