Type: Trad
FA: Eric Barrett, et. al.
Page Views: 385 total · 3/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

To the right of "Hard Up", climb up to a crack. Follow this (5.9) and climb the face above.

Protection

Pro to 1.5", slings for knobs.

Photos

Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
link this one up with Penny Candy for a good route. Heads up at the start. Oct 3, 2015
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10a
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10a
This is a really fun route, especially with the Penny Candy linkup.
It would make a nice lead except for the very sketchy and dangerous start. And judging by only one "lead" in the Tick list I don't think I'm the only one who thinks this.

I'll probably get flak for saying this, but as the route already has 2 bolts, adding a third bolt right by the boldery start does not seem to me to be out of order. Yes, you can get a piece of gear in there, but it's not a great placement and it's also where a critical finger jam is. Is it dumbing down the route? possibly. But I think it's better to have people leading routes than just TR'ing them.

I'm sure it would get a lot more leads if that extra bolt was there. Just a thought. Jun 4, 2016
Jordy Hanson  
 
Bruce, how dare you use the that word which must mot be used B**T. haha jk. I climbed this a few days ago and, to protect the start, got up on the ledge directly to the right, reached over, and placed a black DMM offset. It felt really good to me. It was a little hard to get back out, but inspired a lot of confidence which is the point right? Maybe someone else can give this a go and give a second opinion.

I also linked up with penny candy. and I tell you that I felt better about the nut mentioned above than I did about clipping those bolts! Aug 4, 2018
Latvian climber  
  5.9
Also did the same exact thing as Jordy at the start, except I placed a .3 Camalot. Seemed completely fine to me, although the placement is indeed in a crucial fingerlock. I ended up placing my fingerjam right on top of the cam and it worked well that way. Really cool strenuous few moves off the ledge, then super easy climbing on basketball-sized knobs. Sep 2, 2018
Mike Arechiga
Oakhurst
 
Mike Arechiga   Oakhurst
 
Super fun route, I always do the link up to the top, the arete link up finish to the top is a must do after climbing Slowdancer. Jan 10, 2019