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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: David Babich, 1982
Page Views: 208 total · 3/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Crux near the ground where a crescent-shaped overhanging little bump makes you traverse left. After stepping over, the route is a cruise on slabs with a mix of the Spires' usual bumpy positive features.

Location

The face between the dihedral of Tyro's Testpiece to the left, and the giant flake of Cockabooty to the right.

Protection

Not much pro that I recall, thus the R rating in the guide books. No anchor hardware, though gear anchors are possible in a couple of spots. You can borrow Cockabooty's fixed anchor to the right to rap off.

Photos

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Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
FA: David Babich, 1982. Nov 4, 2013
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
  5.8
Thanks Ryan, credited David on the route description. Nov 5, 2013

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