Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Middle Spire
|
Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
|
|
Beautiful Let Down T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Prow, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Slowdancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.7875, -120.2441 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,753 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Johnsen on May 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
The usual route follows a crack system up a dihedral. Many variations are possible, with jams, stemming and face moves available. Above the dihedral, step left over a couple of ledges and humps to protect it well, then finger traverse back right to the anchor using a crack under a roof. Alternately, go direct from the end of the dihedral to the anchor.
Location
West side of the Middle Spire. As you hike from the parking lot, it's the big left-facing dihedral just left of Over Easy's detached flake and roof.
Most people start the route higher than ground level. From the trail, scramble up a short (10 feet?) class 3 ramp to a comfortable ledge where the dihedral goes vertical. Belaying a leader is better here, but you might stay on the ground if belaying topropes.
Lower or rap off the anchor.
This is a natural first pitch to reach the start of the Prow, if you're looking for an adventurous line to the top of the Spire.
1 Comment