Avg: 1.9 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||315 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Justin Johnsen on May 20, 2013|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Dirt road winter closures Details
Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
DescriptionThe usual route follows a crack system up a dihedral. Many variations are possible, with jams, stemming and face moves available. Above the dihedral, step left over a couple of ledges and humps to protect it well, then finger traverse back right to the anchor using a crack under a roof. Alternately, go direct from the end of the dihedral to the anchor.
LocationWest side of the Middle Spire. As you hike from the parking lot, it's the big left-facing dihedral just left of Over Easy's detached flake and roof.
Most people start the route higher than ground level. From the trail, scramble up a short (10 feet?) class 3 ramp to a comfortable ledge where the dihedral goes vertical. Belaying a leader is better here, but you might stay on the ground if belaying topropes.
Lower or rap off the anchor.
This is a natural first pitch to reach the start of the Prow, if you're looking for an adventurous line to the top of the Spire.