Avg: 2.5 from 107 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,939 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Rezucha on Jul 1, 2005|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details
Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Regular Route lies on the East side of Middle Spire and starts about 25' left of the large dead horizontal tree/log. The first pitch is 70' and the start is an obvious left slanting hand crack on a near vertical face. Gear placement for the first 10' is a bit strenous as the crack wants to spit you out and you are falling to the left with little feet! A few hard moves brings you to an in-balance stance and from here on up the difficulty eases all the way to the slabby ledges. The second pitch is a 5.8 chimney which we didn't do. See The Prow!