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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,761 total · 24/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 1, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Regular Route lies on the East side of Middle Spire and starts about 25' left of the large dead horizontal tree/log. The first pitch is 70' and the start is an obvious left slanting hand crack on a near vertical face. Gear placement for the first 10' is a bit strenous as the crack wants to spit you out and you are falling to the left with little feet! A few hard moves brings you to an in-balance stance and from here on up the difficulty eases all the way to the slabby ledges. The second pitch is a 5.8 chimney which we didn't do. See The Prow!


Mostly medium to larger cams protect the harder lower hands to wide hands crack sections. Climbing eases after 25' but crack still takes small to medium gear. Most people stop on the slabby ledges which has plenty of 1-2" cracks for gear placement.


The second pitch chimney is easy 5.6. The face variation is left of the chimney and is 5.8 R. Aug 24, 2010
Chris DeWitt
Sacramento, CA
Chris DeWitt   Sacramento, CA
I was just there last friday. I definitely agree with Blitzo, the chimney is easy 5.6. Easiest way up middle spire is skipping the first pitch of this route by walking to the left of it and doing the second of this route. Nice way to get TR up on candy land or whatever you want to climb.

The face variation does look fun. I wish there was just one bolt in it.. Aug 31, 2010
Floyd Hayes
Floyd Hayes  
Pitch 1 (3 stars): The first 15 feet are really hard! Especially the move left onto the little pedestal. I don't see how it could be rated 5.8. Much harder than classic 5.8s (e.g., Bishop's Terrace, Harry Daily) in Yosemite Valley. I led both this climb and The Prow 5.10b on sight, and this climb felt much harder!

Pitch 2 (1 star): I disagree with pitch 2 being "easy 5.6." I made the mistake of trying to worm my way up the first narrow section with a big cam in my face and didn't get far, so I downclimbed and started over. I repositioned the big cam in the flake on the right wall, then climbed the left wall a few moves (search for a hidden handhold in an incipient crack) until I could chimney with my back against the right wall. Still felt like 5.8 to me, but maybe I'm just bad at chimneying. Did I climb it wrong? Sep 13, 2011
The rusty 1/4" bolts at the regular route anchors have been replaced with 3/8" bolts, fixie hangers, and petzl quick links. Sep 4, 2012
Not to be a dick Floyd but that first pitch is no where CLOSE to 5.10, sounds like you have to work on your technique a bit. I onsight lead solo'd it and I can only do a handful of 5.10 leads and two 5.11's at my peak. Oct 4, 2012
Perfect hands, might be harder for those with tiny ones. Jan 28, 2013
I don't know what kind of Johnny Benchian hands you guys have, but for me this was fists almost the whole way. My partner said the same, and we have pretty average hands.

I agree with the P2 chimney being around 5.6 if you don't go too deep and make it awkward. Oct 6, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
P1 would be top end VS 5a in UK for the awkward start - the remainder of the crack is wide hands 4b. Oct 3, 2014
N California
grabski   N California
For pitch 1: two #2 and two #3 C4s protects the first section of the pitch well, then a few smaller cams for the top section. I have medium-large hands. The first 15ft was hands/cupped hands, the next 20ft was tight fists. Fun stuff. If only more of the climb was like this first section. Jun 19, 2016
Easy to set up first pitch on TR - Walk to the top, make an exposed scramble above the tunnel on Anal Sex and set an anchor. Strenuous, bouldery start probably is a true .8, but tricky to figure out the easiest way to do it. Feb 7, 2018

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