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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,446 total, 23/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 1, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

The Prow is a great route with plenty of exposure. The route climbs the left side of the large rectangular block on the upper North Side of Middle Spire. This is a wonderful second pitch to Over Easy (5.7) or any of the routes in this area. From the two anchors (at the bottom left side of the rectangular block) climb up a few feet and step out to the arete. The first bolt is hidden just around the corner. You definitely want to find this and clip it prior to committing yourself out on the arete. Fun and exposed face climbing using the left edge gains the summit 30' up. Safe and airy!

Protection

Four bolts to two bolt anchors.

Photos

Eric MC
Oakland, CA
  5.10-
Eric MC   Oakland, CA
  5.10-
Penny Candy felt harder. First move is weird, but not very physical. Great link up with Over Easy! Oct 30, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Agreed that The Prow is very easy 5.10. I would give it 5.10a tops. The initial clip and first move onto the arete is puzzling and may be what leads to the over grading. Once figured out, this is pretty moderate face climbing. Dec 10, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a
First move onto arete is spooky but easy. Well protected, balancy moves with good rests between moves. For some reason it seemed easy for 5.10, no harder than some of the 5.7-5.9 climbs on Middle Spire! Sep 13, 2011
426
426  
This sounds a lot like the route "St. Nicholas" put up by Mark Nicholas (?)... Mar 10, 2007