Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Robert Oravetz & Eric Barrett, 1978
Page Views: 950 total · 9/month
Shared By: Aerili on Nov 20, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Climb a short, very thin crack to a short slab run-out. First set of anchors are around the right of the headwall in front of you. Second pitch consists of some vertical face climbing on bolts on the west side of the headwall to the top.

I didn't climb the second pitch, so I am unsure if the 10b rating comes from this section or not. Otherwise I would rate the crack section 9+. Those with bigger fingers might call it 10a.

Location

On the far right end of the north side of Middle Spire. First pitch can be rapped off chain anchors which sit over what I believe is the start to Harding's Other Chimney. Not sure if there are separate anchors at the top of p2 as well, but if not, set a gear anchor and rap off of Candyland's anchors to the south.

Protection

Cams below 0.5" and small nuts. Quickdraws for p2.

Photos

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mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.8
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.8
First pitch is about 5.8, second pitch is the 10b. Jun 22, 2012
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
First pitch is pretty chill (5.9?) crack for gear and most of the climbing is on knobs. Sorta heads up at the top, but not hard. The second pitch, 5.10b, is a one move wonder to a knob just above and to the right of the bolt anchor. I think the left variation is 5.12, according to the book. Jul 23, 2012