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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Robert Oravetz, Eric Barrett, Dave Stam, 1977.
Page Views: 2,001 total, 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Climb the flake to the right of "Lean and Mean", then face climb to the roof. Move left and follow "Lean and Mean".

A good route. There was a bat in the crack last time I did it.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
Fun climbing because of the variation. More so than Lean and Mean IMO which is more just friction climbing. Oct 30, 2015
Watch out on the first 15-ish feet of the right variation. The obvious hole in the flake can be threaded, but cams behind the flake likely will not hold a fall. The thing sounds like a gong when you slap it... Nov 7, 2013
Kyle Townsend
Oakland, CA
 
Kyle Townsend   Oakland, CA
 
Fist jams to lieback, start protects well with a 3-4 inch cam. Tech face finish makes a nice finale! Can go right or left to fixed anchors once at the roof. Right variation is nice too and protects fine with thinner gear. Nov 1, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Very moderate lie backing leads to a what I thought was a slightly tenuous face finish. Dec 10, 2011
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Actually, a 3" cam doesn't protect the start (although I suppose it depends on how tall you are/how high you can reach). After trying to do the move off the deck unprotected (start of the crux imo with a possible long nasty fall down the hill), I decided to put in a piece first, but I had to use a #4. The 3 can go in a bit higher.

I felt the thin start variation sucked compared to the wide start. Way easier, not as thought-provoking. Really small gear required, but the flake is so hollow I'm not sure it would hold a fall.

I heard someone call the wide flake start a "hand crack." I had to lie it back. Even for someone with big hands, jamming would be awkward I would imagine.

I also found this route to be sooo much better/more satisfying than Lean and Mean. Sep 14, 2009
Ol Toby
CA
 
Ol Toby   CA
 
The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light. Feb 8, 2009
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
A 3" cam protects the start, which is burlier and more tenuous than I thought it'd be. The first 12 feet were the crux for me. Nov 18, 2007