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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tyro?
Page Views: 496 total · 4/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Follow a low angle left facing corner through a ackward wide section. The last 30ft of the climb has an enjoyable lieback section.

Walk off to the left on 4th class ledges...


The first LF coner to the right of the Regular Route


SR, extra finger sized gear


feels a little insecure half way up left facing corner. maybe not the best first lead for someone. Sep 24, 2010
Sacramento, CA
TerriB   Sacramento, CA
I agree with splitclimber. I also found half way up surprisingly insecure for a 5.5. Getting around the left facing bulge was challenging. Sep 27, 2010
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
I found the corner secure enough. For me, getting around the bulge at the start gave me problems for a 5.5 climb. You can continue up into the chimney above (maybe a 5.8 move getting into the chimney then 5.0 after that) to summit Middle Spire. Jul 17, 2011
Floyd Hayes
Floyd Hayes  
Fun climb, sustained and well protected, but much harder than Knapsack Crack 5.5 and harder than Deception 5.6 at Lover's Leap. Felt like 5.7 to me. Sep 4, 2011
Nathan Z
Sacramento, CA
Nathan Z   Sacramento, CA
You can climb up the obvious 5.8 chimney that follows the end of this route to set up top ropes for the west side of Middle Spire (e.g. Candyland). Jun 10, 2018

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