Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tyro?
Page Views: 535 total · 4/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Follow a low angle left facing corner through a ackward wide section. The last 30ft of the climb has an enjoyable lieback section.

Walk off to the left on 4th class ledges...

Location

The first LF coner to the right of the Regular Route

Protection

SR, extra finger sized gear

Photos

feels a little insecure half way up left facing corner. maybe not the best first lead for someone. Sep 24, 2010
TerriB
Sacramento, CA
 
TerriB   Sacramento, CA
 
I agree with splitclimber. I also found half way up surprisingly insecure for a 5.5. Getting around the left facing bulge was challenging. Sep 27, 2010
Josh Cameron
California
  5.5
Josh Cameron   California
  5.5
I found the corner secure enough. For me, getting around the bulge at the start gave me problems for a 5.5 climb. You can continue up into the chimney above (maybe a 5.8 move getting into the chimney then 5.0 after that) to summit Middle Spire. Jul 17, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
Fun climb, sustained and well protected, but much harder than Knapsack Crack 5.5 and harder than Deception 5.6 at Lover's Leap. Felt like 5.7 to me. Sep 4, 2011
Nathan Z
Sacramento, CA
Nathan Z   Sacramento, CA
You can climb up the obvious 5.8 chimney that follows the end of this route to set up top ropes for the west side of Middle Spire (e.g. Candyland). Jun 10, 2018