Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 293 total · 3/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on Aug 31, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


This climb hosts a tricky crux right below the chains. I won't spoil it for you here.


Between Fancy Dancin' and Harding's Other Chimney. The climb begins at the point that the trail around Middle Spire levels out. You'll see the bolted anchors on the headwall above.


Small to medium sized gear.


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Joshua Wise
Mountain View, CA
Joshua Wise   Mountain View, CA
I think it's an easier lead than Tyro's Test Piece -- my first trad lead, it was, anyway! Good placements most of the way up. Crux is indeed thought provoking, but is easily protectable with either Camalots or Tri-cams (if you hate your second). Perhaps a little bit easier than 5.6? Apr 18, 2016