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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: George Connor, Ron Oravetz
Page Views: 7,060 total, 52/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

On the left side of the north face is a detatched flake with a roof above it.
Climb up the flake, pull the roof, move up the steep knobby face, up and right to a belay below a corner.
Follow the corner to the top.

Protection

to 2.5".
BruceB
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
There is a newish a set of anchors at the top of this climb. Just below and in the center of the roof. The are hard to see from the ground. Jun 3, 2016
Chris B.
San Francisco
 
Chris B.   San Francisco
 
Super fun route. Great holds and a fantastic move over the roof - pretty rare to get this kind of thing on a 5.7 in my opinion. Mental crux for me was slinging the knob on the lip of the roof - once that was done the rest was just plain fun. Oct 6, 2014
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
I climbed this as a warm-up with an experienced partner, but the whole time I was climbing I couldn't stop thinking how this would be an awesome climb to take a first timer on.

The improbable, yet technically very easy roof, to the puzzle of knobs above make this one that would surely hook even the most skeptical of n00bs on the sport!

I thought this was a standout climb for the grade. Sep 24, 2013
gen-eva
Salt Lake City
 
gen-eva   Salt Lake City
 
Very fun, perfect for a first-ever roof move! Harder than 5.7 if you're only 5'0" and have to throw for the (out-of-reach) knob and then hang one-handed before pulling it. Awesome!!

And yes, 'Hard Up' is a better start. Aug 25, 2012
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun route. "Hard Up" is a better start. Aug 24, 2010
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
Didn't believe this was 5.7 until I climbed it. Solid jug on the roof and a heel hook get you over. Crux actually came before the roof for me, but I stemmed between this and the left-facing crack to the right. I'd recommend Hard Up as a better variation. Aug 25, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
A wild pitch for 5.7... Make sure you have 2-3 sling ready to tie off knobs for pro above the roof. You should definitely link this one into the Prow for a great 5.10 link-up. Oct 6, 2007