Type: Trad
FA: George Connor, Ron Oravetz
Page Views: 7,785 total · 51/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 12, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


165 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

On the left side of the north face is a detatched flake with a roof above it.
Climb up the flake, pull the roof, move up the steep knobby face, up and right to a belay below a corner.
Follow the corner to the top.

Protection

to 2.5".
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
A wild pitch for 5.7... Make sure you have 2-3 sling ready to tie off knobs for pro above the roof. You should definitely link this one into the Prow for a great 5.10 link-up. Oct 6, 2007
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
Didn't believe this was 5.7 until I climbed it. Solid jug on the roof and a heel hook get you over. Crux actually came before the roof for me, but I stemmed between this and the left-facing crack to the right. I'd recommend Hard Up as a better variation. Aug 25, 2009
Blitzo
  5.7
Blitzo  
  5.7
A fun route. "Hard Up" is a better start. Aug 24, 2010
gen-eva
Salt Lake City
 
gen-eva   Salt Lake City
 
Very fun, perfect for a first-ever roof move! Harder than 5.7 if you're only 5'0" and have to throw for the (out-of-reach) knob and then hang one-handed before pulling it. Awesome!!

And yes, 'Hard Up' is a better start. Aug 25, 2012
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
I climbed this as a warm-up with an experienced partner, but the whole time I was climbing I couldn't stop thinking how this would be an awesome climb to take a first timer on.

The improbable, yet technically very easy roof, to the puzzle of knobs above make this one that would surely hook even the most skeptical of n00bs on the sport!

I thought this was a standout climb for the grade. Sep 24, 2013
Chris B.
San Francisco
 
Chris B.   San Francisco
 
Super fun route. Great holds and a fantastic move over the roof - pretty rare to get this kind of thing on a 5.7 in my opinion. Mental crux for me was slinging the knob on the lip of the roof - once that was done the rest was just plain fun. Oct 6, 2014
BruceB
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
There is a newish a set of anchors at the top of this climb. Just below and in the center of the roof. The are hard to see from the ground. Jun 3, 2016