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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport
FA: Dave Hatchett, Tom Burt, 10/1988.
Page Views: 1,647 total · 12/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007 with updates from Brennan VandenHoek
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


Climb cracks and the knobby face above, passing a bolt and a fixed pin.


This is no longer trad. It is protected with 7 bolts.


PumpkinEater   Sacramento
Not an "R" route anymore. As of yesterday it's protected with about 7 bolts. The third bolt at the crux is a little older, but otherwise the route felt pretty safe. Jun 24, 2009
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
Pumpkin is correct. This route is almost fully bolted, though some may want a gear placement before the first bolt....I think the flake on the slab takes gear in the ballpark size of a 0.75 BD camalot. Nov 9, 2009
Ross James
Ross James  
I found this route to be easier than the 10c Candyland to the right. Skip the bolts near the top and place pro in the horizontal cracks instead for giggles! Aug 24, 2012
No pins and very well protected after the initial easy slab, which can be protected with smaller c4's. Jan 28, 2013
Pavel Burov
Pavel Burov   Russia
It is a sport route, not a trad. 7 or 8 draws are enough to protect it.

To toprope bring a couple of double shoulder (120cm, 48") slings and a couple of medium (green to yellow work well) cams. Sling a huge block and backup it with cams. The anchor works for Candyass and Harding's Other Chimney as well. I found it is to be more convenient then use the Candyland anchor to TR Candyass - there are too many people want to climb both these routes at the same time. Oct 16, 2013
D. Scott Clark
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
If you're going to bolt a sport route, bolt a sport route. There's no reason to leave the first 30 feet unprotected. Yes, it would take cams, but the description says that it is no longer a trad route. One or two bolts on the slab would make it safe. And for God's sake, put in an anchor. That's so fucking dumb to have to traverse over to Candyland. Aug 17, 2018
Danny Herrera
San Bruno, CA
Danny Herrera   San Bruno, CA

It was a trad route that was bolted, not a sport route. Aug 17, 2018

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