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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Bill Serniuk, free solo.
Page Views: 2,392 total, 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 6, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Starts from a triangular rock, against the base.
Left of "Regular Route".
Climb straight up the face, through a tunnel.
A fun, easy solo.
The description in the Supertopo Tahoe Guide is incorrect.

Protection

none.

Photos

Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.8 X
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.8 X
This route is hard to get the first time, feels uncomfortable and can hurt if you don't get the sequence right. Adjacent to the clam. Apr 18, 2016
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.9 X
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.9 X
The lieback is Rain Song I believe, about 5.7/5.8 and it goes straight up the juggy konobs about 20-25' up the lieback, with some decent knob tie-offs. Anal Sex goes straight up the face through the tight tunnel/batwings/flakeish thing past some crimps and a knob mantel, def an X route. Felt more like 5.9 on lead to me, but then I am far from a soloist. Jun 22, 2012
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
What liebacking. You're on another route dude. This goes straight up an unprotected face.
I think 70' or whatever it is, with no pro would be considered X. Aug 24, 2010
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Don't remember anything on this route qualifying it for an "X" rating. Solid liebacking traverse with decent pro then up through tunnel. Nov 2, 2009