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Anal Sex

5.8 X, Trad,  Avg: 2 from 13 votes
FA: Bill Serniuk, free solo.
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > e. Phantom Spires > Middle Spire
Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Starts from a triangular rock, against the base.
Left of "Regular Route".
Climb straight up the face, through a tunnel.
A fun, easy solo.
The description in the Supertopo Tahoe Guide is incorrect.

Protection

none.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

How to capture the right perspective?  Not quite as steep as it appears, but not as slabby as a right-rotation would make it appear either.
[Hide Photo] How to capture the right perspective? Not quite as steep as it appears, but not as slabby as a right-rotation would make it appear either.
Tiptoeing up the upper tier face as an alternate finish to the Regular Route.  <br>
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September 2009
[Hide Photo] Tiptoeing up the upper tier face as an alternate finish to the Regular Route. September 2009

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve R.
Oakland, CA
[Hide Comment] Don't remember anything on this route qualifying it for an "X" rating. Solid liebacking traverse with decent pro then up through tunnel. Nov 2, 2009
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] What liebacking. You're on another route dude. This goes straight up an unprotected face.
I think 70' or whatever it is, with no pro would be considered X. Aug 24, 2010
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.9 X
[Hide Comment] The lieback is Rain Song I believe, about 5.7/5.8 and it goes straight up the juggy konobs about 20-25' up the lieback, with some decent knob tie-offs. Anal Sex goes straight up the face through the tight tunnel/batwings/flakeish thing past some crimps and a knob mantel, def an X route. Felt more like 5.9 on lead to me, but then I am far from a soloist. Jun 22, 2012
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.8 X
[Hide Comment] This route is hard to get the first time, feels uncomfortable and can hurt if you don't get the sequence right. Adjacent to the clam. Apr 18, 2016