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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,942 total, 14/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 15, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Climb the crack/corner right of the start of "Over Easy" to the roof, then join that route.

This is a much better start to "Over Easy".

Protection

Cams, slings for knobs.

Photos

Amanda Luu
Danville
  5.9
Amanda Luu   Danville
  5.9
The section under the roof is the most fun. Did this yesterday and there was already a .3 stuck under the roof so my lead just clipped it. If you're on the short side like me (5'2") just get a good heel hook on the roof and push up rather than look for something to pull cuz there aren't good knobs. I felt like it's more of a juggy mantle. Jul 10, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This was a very cool route, easily the best 5.9 and under offering I tried on this spire. The starting finger crack leads to an easy roof, leads to the classic knob hiking shared with Over Easy. Dec 10, 2011
SKI
Portlandia, OR
 
SKI   Portlandia, OR
 
Use small cams for the thin lieback. a .3 camalot and a .5 for the roof crack works fine. Jun 30, 2010