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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Greg Barnes, 8 May, 2006
Page Views: 717 total · 10/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Dec 18, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

The original route is technically a variation of Hard Up. It starts with that 5.9 lieback crack for 20 feet, then goes around the hump to the right, and up the face, trending right to finish at the bolted anchor under the roof.

On toprope, I preferred starting on the balancey arete and face section, right of the Hard Up crack start. This also avoids encroaching on climbers on that route when the rope is already hung.

Location

Middle Spire north face, between Over Easy and Hard up to the left, and Slowdancer to the Right.

Protection

Little pro for the first crack section and cracks between the knobs above; and slings for knobs. Two bolt anchor/rap station of recent vintage at the top.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This lead originally had a few bolts on it, which were still in when I did the route shortly after it went up. I think you'd want some small gear to supplement between those knobs on the upper face. Dec 18, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
 
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
 
Thanks, C., I updated the pro with your notes! I've only TRed this line so far. Dec 20, 2012

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