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Elevation: 6,028 ft 1,837 m
GPS: 38.7875, -120.2441
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 61,956 total · 269/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.

22 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Middle Spire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 213
Over Easy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 136
Regular Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 170
Lean And Mean
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 86
Hard Up
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 89
Corn Flakes
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Hooray Hooray!
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 42
Slowdancer
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Penny Candy
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 89
The Prow
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Fancy Dancin'
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 258
Candyland
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 71
Candyass
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Leaner and Meaner
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Over Easy
 213
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Regular Route
 136
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Lean And Mean
 170
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hard Up
 86
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Corn Flakes
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hooray Hooray!
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Slowdancer
 42
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Penny Candy
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Prow
 89
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fancy Dancin'
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Candyland
 258
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Candyass
 71
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Leaner and Meaner
 48
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Middle Spire »

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