Elevation: 6,028 ft
GPS: 38.788, -120.244 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,105 total · 177/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.

Getting There

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Spire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 164
Over Easy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 107
Regular Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
 14
Anal Sex
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 125
Lean And Mean
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
Hard Up
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
Corn Flakes
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Hooray Hooray!
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Penny Candy
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 64
The Prow
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Fancy Dancin'
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 185
Candyland
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
Candyass
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 36
Leaner and Meaner
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Over Easy
 164
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Regular Route
 107
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Anal Sex
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad
Lean And Mean
 125
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hard Up
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Corn Flakes
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hooray Hooray!
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Penny Candy
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Prow
 64
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Fancy Dancin'
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Candyland
 185
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Candyass
 55
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Leaner and Meaner
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Middle Spire »

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I lost a green tri-cam and a blue bd .5 c4 this past weekend. Absolutely epic trip otherwise. If anyone found these with the nano 22 'biners from camp it would really make my day! May 31, 2017