Middle Spire Rock Climbing
Routes in Middle Spire
|Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Prow, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|GPS:||38.788, -120.244 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||22,754 total, 150/month|
|Shared By:||Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.
All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.
As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.
Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.
All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.
Dirt road winter closures Details
Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Getting ThereApproach time: 10 minutes.
From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.
Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season