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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 6,028 ft
GPS: 38.788, -120.244 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 22,931 total, 151/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 20, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The most popular spire at Phantom Spires is the middle spire. It's easy to get to, it's got a wide variety of routes (5.5 - 5.12) on terrain that varies from very slabby to moderatly overhung.

All the rock is frictiony granite that is often quite knobby.

As a spire in the middle of an open field, the rock is exposed to sun on different sides at different times of the day. The West side can be quite windy, since the exposed boulder field heading down the hill grabs gusts and throws them up past the spire.

Kandyland (5.10c) is an awesome traditional lead using slings on solid huge knobs for most of the route.

All routes descend via rappel, as there is no really easy way to the top of the spire.
Dirt road winter closures Details

Getting There

Approach time: 10 minutes.

From the main parking lot, head uphill to the west out of theparking lot on a moderately wide trail leading through the trees. This trail will wander up and down hillsides through a gully of sorts aiming directly at the Middle Spire, which can be seen at times. The approach trail will run into the Northeast corner of the spire.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over Easy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Anal Sex
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Up
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corn Flakes
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hooray Hooray!
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penny Candy
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
The Prow
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fancy Dancin'
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Candyland
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyass
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leaner and Meaner
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Over Easy 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Regular Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Anal Sex 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad
Lean And Mean 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hard Up 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Corn Flakes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hooray Hooray! 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Penny Candy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Prow 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Fancy Dancin' 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Candyland 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Candyass 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Leaner and Meaner 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Middle Spire »

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I lost a green tri-cam and a blue bd .5 c4 this past weekend. Absolutely epic trip otherwise. If anyone found these with the nano 22 'biners from camp it would really make my day! May 31, 2017

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