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Routes in Middle Spire

Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prow, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slowdancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 1990
Page Views: 2,583 total, 21/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

This is the pitch above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer, which follows 3 bolts up the arete. I recommend skipping the intermediate belay and linking the pitches for a great 90ft pitch. You will most likely want a couple long slings on the first two bolts, if linking the pitches.

Location

The arete above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer...

Protection

3 bolts

Photos

Michael Dom
  5.10a
Michael Dom  
  5.10a
Definitely the best part of climbing lean and mean. The prow is short, but memorable. Dec 13, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
After "Fear of Flying," my favorite route at Phantom Spires. Airy and exciting climbing followed by a fun rappel. We reached the ground with one 60m.

I struggled between giving the climb 3 or 4 stars and finally went with 4 since the exposure and the position of the line are both incredible. A blast to climb and a good tick for mere mortals like myself. Feb 17, 2011