Type: Trad, 435 ft (132 m), 3 pitches
FA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954.
Page Views: 6,348 total · 35/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Caldor Fire closures, August - September 2021 Details


This Sugarloaf classic climbs the chimney and crack system to the summit of the south pinnacle.
Climb a ramp and blocky rock up the right side of The Fang, to an alcove.
Climb a 5.7 chimney to a good belay.
Move up and left to another chimney and follow it to a belay ledge in the South Notch.
From the north end of the notch, climb a 5.7 arch to it's top. Turn the corner and follow a trough to a cave beneath the summit.
Continue to the summit.


Pro to 4".