Type: Trad, 435 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954.
Page Views: 4,611 total · 32/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This Sugarloaf classic climbs the chimney and crack system to the summit of the south pinnacle.
Climb a ramp and blocky rock up the right side of The Fang, to an alcove.
Climb a 5.7 chimney to a good belay.
Move up and left to another chimney and follow it to a belay ledge in the South Notch.
From the north end of the notch, climb a 5.7 arch to it's top. Turn the corner and follow a trough to a cave beneath the summit.
Continue to the summit.

Protection

Pro to 4".

Photos

Josh Cameron
California
  5.8 R
Josh Cameron   California
  5.8 R
I've always wanted to lead this, but never did because of the horror stories I've heard of this climb. As a result, I always climbed Scheister instead. Now, after leading the notorious chimney pitch, I'd say if you are confident in chimneys then it's not all that bad. In fact, I found it easier than Scheister's chimney. There is always a good edge or a knob for your hands or feet right where you need it. In fact, I found the pitch after the chimney to be the hardest one on the climb. Feb 23, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  5.7 R
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
  5.7 R
Probably R rated, the chimney is low angle after the crux bulge, but there is no gear for the rest of the pitch, if you were to blow it then a hospital trip would be likely. Dec 16, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7 R
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7 R
I thought the crux was passing the bulge after turning the roof. Unless you bring a#4 Big Bro, there is no pro after the roof pitons until the anchor (apart from a tiny cam in a thin flake near the very end).

With a well-placed #4 Big Bro, climb is probably PG13, without a #4 Big Bro, it seemed like an R, although the climbing does get easier and more secure as you get higher. I found it best to change sides just above the crux, which was a tad spooky to do. Feb 16, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I led this years ago without any big pro. If you're confident in your chimney technique then you'll no doubt enjoy this climb. If not....... Nov 15, 2013
EJoe
Mammoth Lakes, CA
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Valley Giant #9 protects the bulge. The climb goes from R to PG as you'd have to actually try to fall out of the chimney once you're a couple body lengths above the VG9. Set a lower belay so the rope doesn't push the cam into the crack. Apr 19, 2016
Nick_Cov
Truckee, CA
  5.8 R
Nick_Cov   Truckee, CA
  5.8 R
Fun and worth doing, I preferred it to Scheister. The run out section is very secure as long as you are comfortable in a chimney or squeeze. Gear: Doubles of C4s to #3. Leave anything bigger at home, there is nowhere to place a 4 or 5 in the run out chimney and it is not needed on the other pitches, it will only get in the way in the chimneys.

P1 5.6 easy blocky climbing up to a stance.

P2 5.8 (crux) Chimney up to 2 shitty pitons. You can back them up with a purple C4 above the higher piton, pull through the roof into a fun squeeze with good edges. The climbing is much easier if you stay on the outside, however it is less secure. Climb this past a false belay up to a fun 5.6/5.7 low angle crack with a small squeeze on top.

P3 5.6 continue up scheister of a different variation Apr 30, 2017