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Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Beast of Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bird Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Velvet T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Captain Fingers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crushed Velvet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dominion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Falcon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fang-Left Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fracture, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Illusion T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Harding's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lady Luck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mini Illusion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Flower T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morticia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opus 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Over the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pinch a Loaf S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scheister T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swallowtail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Talking Heads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tapestry T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Taurus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 435 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954.
Page Views: 4,133 total, 31/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

This Sugarloaf classic climbs the chimney and crack system to the summit of the south pinnacle.
Climb a ramp and blocky rock up the right side of The Fang, to an alcove.
Climb a 5.7 chimney to a good belay.
Move up and left to another chimney and follow it to a belay ledge in the South Notch.
From the north end of the notch, climb a 5.7 arch to it's top. Turn the corner and follow a trough to a cave beneath the summit.
Continue to the summit.

Protection

Pro to 4".

Photos

Nick_Cov
Truckee, CA
  5.8 R
Nick_Cov   Truckee, CA
  5.8 R
Fun and worth doing, I preferred it to Scheister. The run out section is very secure as long as you are comfortable in a chimney or squeeze. Gear: Doubles of C4s to #3. Leave anything bigger at home, there is nowhere to place a 4 or 5 in the run out chimney and it is not needed on the other pitches, it will only get in the way in the chimneys.

P1 5.6 easy blocky climbing up to a stance.

P2 5.8 (crux) Chimney up to 2 shitty pitons. You can back them up with a purple C4 above the higher piton, pull through the roof into a fun squeeze with good edges. The climbing is much easier if you stay on the outside, however it is less secure. Climb this past a false belay up to a fun 5.6/5.7 low angle crack with a small squeeze on top.

P3 5.6 continue up scheister of a different variation Apr 30, 2017
EJoe
Mammoth Lakes, CA
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Valley Giant #9 protects the bulge. The climb goes from R to PG as you'd have to actually try to fall out of the chimney once you're a couple body lengths above the VG9. Set a lower belay so the rope doesn't push the cam into the crack. Apr 19, 2016
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I led this years ago without any big pro. If you're confident in your chimney technique then you'll no doubt enjoy this climb. If not....... Nov 15, 2013
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.7 R
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.7 R
I thought the crux was passing the bulge after turning the roof. Unless you bring a#4 Big Bro, there is no pro after the roof pitons until the anchor (apart from a tiny cam in a thin flake near the very end).

With a well-placed #4 Big Bro, climb is probably PG13, without a #4 Big Bro, it seemed like an R, although the climbing does get easier and more secure as you get higher. I found it best to change sides just above the crux, which was a tad spooky to do. Feb 16, 2013
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.7 R
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.7 R
Probably R rated, the chimney is low angle after the crux bulge, but there is no gear for the rest of the pitch, if you were to blow it then a hospital trip would be likely. Dec 16, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8 R
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8 R
I've always wanted to lead this, but never did because of the horror stories I've heard of this climb. As a result, I always climbed Scheister instead. Now, after leading the notorious chimney pitch, I'd say if you are confident in chimneys then it's not all that bad. In fact, I found it easier than Scheister's chimney. There is always a good edge or a knob for your hands or feet right where you need it. In fact, I found the pitch after the chimney to be the hardest one on the climb. Feb 23, 2012