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Routes in 3 - Donnie G

Arrowhead T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whisker Biscuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dan Kennedy, Paul Tiesla
Page Views: 2,567 total, 24/month
Shared By: Ryan Curry on Feb 23, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

With a variety of crack sizes, excellent and easy to place protection and plenty of sun, Whisker Biscuit is a great introduction to Woodfords climbing. Starting above a nice belay clearing climb up to a small ledge and cruise up a fun thin-hands crack that turns briefly to fingers and leads to a prominent roof. Trend right under the roof into a hand crack that splits a bulge (first crux). Pull the bulge and continue up an ever-widening, leaning crack. Stay with the crack as it necks down to tips avoiding the ugly wide crack to the right. Crank a tenuous lieback (second crux), move up 10 more feet and either
A: dart left to a two bolt anchor/rap station above the Arrowhead or
B: continue straight up on 3rd class for about 30 ft. to a two bolt anchor that is located above the east-facing Walking Jack (5.10+) and lower down that climb. This may require a 70 meter rope.

Location

This route is located 15' right of Arrowhead's "stalactite". As described above, there are two options for descent, both involving bolted rap anchors.

Protection

From 3/8" to 3". Doubles of 2"-3". 3/8" cams protect the second crux so some may want doubles of those, also.

Photos

Ben Snow
San Diego, Ca
 
Ben Snow   San Diego, Ca
 
Pretty fun climb, felt it was pretty easy for 5.9 if you can power over the roof okay. Definitely climb arrowhead after, its fantastic Dec 29, 2016
Did the wide crack variation on the right this weekend. Its a move or two of 5.8 off hands (#4 camalot is perfect) then just romp to the top of Walking Jack. Its a fun alternative that is more physical and more secure than the tenuous layback going left. Feb 19, 2015
Amazing hand jams with a strong move around a roof. There are two fixed camalots on this thing a #2 that you can't clip at the roof and the #3 mid way up the hand crack. Nov 24, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Doesn't look like much from the ground but actually offers fairly excellent climbing. Apr 19, 2010