Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dick long, Al Steck, 1965
Page Views: 35,514 total · 204/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Apr 4, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux of this route is the notorious offwidth second pitch. It can be well protected with a #4 Camalot placed deep in the crack. Most parties prefer two #4s though I have led it safely with one #3.

The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge.

The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap.

The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece.

The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.

Location

Start on the Tombstone ledge and follow a serrated crack just to the right of Boot hill. Or you can skip the first pitch (not recommended) and start at the offwidth second pitch just around the corner from Corrugation Corner. If you skip the first pitch, sorry, "you have not climbed Travelers Buttress" only part of it.

To reach Tombstone Ledge, follow the approach trail up and left to the base of a smaller wall below the main ledge which hosts the obvious features of broken flakes sticking up out of the ground like giant tombstones. The start of Travelers buttress is the obviously well worn, serrated crack system just right of the sport route "Boot Hill".

Protection

Cams, .5" - 4"; Nuts, 1 set.

Photos