Sands of Time

Sands Of Time is one of the classic trade routes of Calaveras Domes and on par with many similarly graded routes in Yosemite and Tahoe. Good climbing in corners, splitter finger cracks, engaging face/slab and even a little of the wide stuff make this an all around climbing experience. With its mostly moderate grades, stretching up 8 or 9 pitches, this is a rare gem to be had anywhere North of Tahoe.  

Pitch 1 Climb the main corner through some occasional funky wide stuff and good hands. (5.8). Has  bolted anchors at the top. 

Pitch 2 Goes up through a small roof to a bolted ledge. Fun double-crack jamming up higher in the slot and sweet face climbing over the roof characterize this pitch. Most parties link pitches 2 and 3. (5.9)

Pitch 3 Continues up the corner in good cracks and ends at a big ledge above. (5.9)

Pitch 4 Climbs is a short pitch w/ chimney to a small ledge below the head wall above. (5.8)

Pitch 5  Climbs a glorious splitter finger crack up the head wall with good rests, ample gear and a moderate grade of (5.8). Bolted anchors at a good ledge on top. 

Pitch 6. (5.6) Climb up a series of shallow right facing corners past a couple bolts and on to a very featured but runnout face. The runnout section has good rests, plenty of features and big holds to help you along. This section should not be a deterrent for anyone capable of leading up to this point. Ends at the massive 12 o’clock ledge. A great spot to enjoy lunch! 

Original Route; 

From the 12 o'clock ledge, there are several options to choose to proceed, or retreat. The original line climbs five pitches of extremely runnout face and cracks. P1. Climb the face above with little to no protection through 5.8X territory up shallow corners and crusty flakes to a big ledge. P2. Scramble along the ledge to the right and climbs a low angle wide flake heading up and left. From its peak, climb the steep face above scouring the terrain for two bolts. You should be heading towards a big left facing corner above. Build a gear anchor at the base of the corner. A serious pitch of 5.9X. P3. Climb the Left facing corner (5.10a) to Warlord Ledge. (A big angled ledge system that nearly spans the length of the dome.) P4. Climb the face above up unprotected knobby slab and look for gear in the few corners and crevasses you'll encounter to a big ledge. Gear anchor. (5.8X) P5. Continue up the knobby face angling left heading for a big tree which sits on the lowest ledge. (5.6) The rappels for Silk Road are to the left across a dirty shallow gully next to a small fir tree. This original line is rarely if ever done. Expect the few bolts on this line to be old rusty 1/4in mank. 

Rappel from 12 O’clock; 

Rappel Beta from 12 o'clock ledge (top of pitch 6)
At least 2 60M ropes required.
1st rap starts from left side of 12 o'clock ledge. Head left down Gulley. 35m
2nd rap added on ledge in middle of Gulley to reduce risk of rope getting stuck. Continue left down Gulley to large ledge. 35 M
3rd rap lands on an awesome ledge which is the top of the .10b corner on Silk Road. 60M
4th rap. .Rap heads left around the arete to the bottom of the beautiful dihedral. 60M
5th Rap. Head for the 1st pitch anchor of Silk Road/Sands of time. It is left of the Plumb line. Watch for pitch 2 anchor of Sands of Time to the right if you want to break up the this rap. 60M
6th Rap. Short rap to the ground.

Continuing to Tibetan Tower; 

There are two ways to go here.

Variation 1; You can climb up the chimney on the left side of 12 o’clock for two pitches. P1. (5.7) Climbs the big dirty corner to a small stance. P2. (5.8) Continues up the corner and becomes a tight chimney to the top of the East Tibetan Tower.

Variation 2; P1. (5.7) Climb the big corner on the Right side of 12 o’clock ledge to its top. This is the last pitch of Green Sponge and decent climbing. P2. (5.5) Climb the low angle ramp to the left which gets steeper and goes up an easy trough/chimney to a bolted anchor. P3. (5.6) Continue up the straightforward corner system to the top of the Tibetan Tower. Continue up Silk Road to the top of the dome, or rappel from here. 

 
Rappel Route;

One short single rope rap will get you to the top of West Tibetan Tower. From here Rappel from anchors just over the lip at the tip of the tower down 5 double rope rappels. This is the rappel route for Silk Road. Two 60m ropes required. Some of the rappels are full length, so tie knots at the end of your rope, or don’t get distracted and pay close attention when descending.