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Routes in Left Side

Aja T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Colors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drain Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gasoline Alley T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jousting with a Jackal T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lock Buster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Business T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Over the Rainbow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scarecrow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scareflow TR WI5 M5
Type: Trad
FA: John Hoffman, Gene Drake, and Karl Hammer in 1979
Page Views: 489 total, 4/month
Shared By: urs on Aug 14, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: private property Details

Description

This is the odvious corner crack on the very left side of the wall which is a fun warm up for the more harder routes.

Location

This is the very first route on the very left side. It is the odvious corner crack bellow and to the left of the roof.

Protection

Pro to 2". The only fixed anchor that can be accessed for this climb is the anchor at the top of the climb “Jousting with the Jackal”. If you are climbing "Lock Buster" you can get to these fixed anchors by continuing up the seam and continue up to the top of “Jousting with the Jackal” (12a). You can establish a trad anchor at the top of “Lock Buster” if you move to climber's left to a substantial ledge where it is possible to set a belay on thin gear. From there you can walk off, or if feeling insecure, can do a mini traverse pitch to flatter ground.

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John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
newfarmer: Hopefully I fixed the problem you describe in the "Protection" section of this route. Thanks for the info. Oct 27, 2015
Just climbed Lockbuster and there are no bolted anchors at the top. If you continue up the seam to the anchors this route become Jousting with the Jackal(12a). I believe that Lockbuster escapes climber's left onto a substantial ledge where it is possible to set a belay on thin gear. From there you can walk off, or if feeling insecure can do a mini traverse pitch to flatter ground.
Oct 19, 2015