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Routes in Left Side

Aja T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Colors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drain Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gasoline Alley T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jousting with a Jackal T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lock Buster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Business T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Over the Rainbow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scarecrow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scareflow TR WI5 M5
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Type: TR, Mixed, Ice, 60 ft
FA: Tony Lobay
Page Views: 232 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony Lobay on Jan 4, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: private property Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is the ice flow that rarely forms over Scarecrow. Start up the mixed crack Aja. Move right onto the thin ice. Fun moves over the bulge up higher.

If the route was in a lot more, it could be lead. With the conditions we had, there would would be zero pro until about 30 feed up, then bad pro above.

We climbed this Jan 1, 2016. It was about 10°F out that morning. It had been cold for the previous few days. I have never seen anything written about the route before, nor have I seen the route in on previous visits to Rainbow. For all I know some old dog soloed laps on this in 1978.

Location [Suggest Change]

Look for the flow next to Aja. If it's in, get your tools and run.

Protection [Suggest Change]

We only TR'd it. In theory it would be leadable. The bottom section was super thin (an inch or two).

For TR anchor we belayed above, anchoring off two small trees far back, then backing up off the tree above Aja. Possibly you could put a screw in on this route as a directional and use the chains above Aja.

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