Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Herbert, Tompkins
Page Views: 29,994 total · 187/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 with improvements by livinontheledge
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is one of the finest crack lines at the Leap. It is located in the center of the East Wall. It should not be hard to pick out, since it follows a continuous crack system for 400ft.

P1: This is the best pitch. Follow a straight in crack in a shallow LF dihedral for 130ft. The first 100ft are continuous, but rests can be found on dikes. Not a great "first 5.9" - should be solid at the grade. Take care placing protection in the first 30 feet. 

P2: Continue up the crack system which turns right facing. Belay before a roof.

P3: Short pitch. Climb the roof and descend to the left on a well marked trail.


Gear to 2.5"


Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
This route can be easily completed in two pitches using a 60 meter rope. Once you've found the first belay stance immediately up and right of a roof system, it is about 185 feet to the top of the route. The rope drag on this second pitch is atrocious, and gets exciting pulling the final roof, so bring lots of slings. May 29, 2006
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
I've done it in three pitches, and in two pitches, and I'd agree it is better to do it in two. The third pitch is short, and if you stop where I did for the second belay, the anchor isn't all that great. An old pin, a very thin nut (3 or 4 bd) and some junk cams. Jun 12, 2007
Yes, easily climbed in two pitches...even for a punter like me. A nice climb with fun moves. May 20, 2009
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
... or in 1 pitch with a 70 meter rope and rap to the ground from the "Labor of Love" bolted anchor.

1st pitch is fantastic and features 2 distinct cruxes. Oct 26, 2009
the first time I lead the line,hex's were just making sene,great pro the whole way to the top,its great to see no bolts on the route,RR would be pruod Jul 26, 2010
RR had a climbing school at the leap in the early 70's Jul 26, 2010
A great line. Aug 24, 2010
Joe Ludlow
Seattle, WA
Joe Ludlow   Seattle, WA
Fantastic climb! I would recommend that this one be led with zero cams and only nuts! Cept for the roof. A yellow placed just below it protects it perfectly. Aug 25, 2010
Jebus H Bomz
Sacramento, CA
Jebus H Bomz   Sacramento, CA
Per Joe's suggestion, I've led it with WC Zero cams. It's pretty good that way. Aug 24, 2011
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
The anchors for Labor of Love just to the right of the gear belay work quite nice and makes for a spicy finish with a traverse Sep 13, 2013
You CANNOT rap directly off with a 70m rope-or at least ours. Please be careful suggesting you can. Sep 16, 2013
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
fun, solid line. We did it in two as well, and with a bit of runout on easy terrain on the second pitch, the rope drag wasn't bad at all...if you face climb frequently and are comfortable to that kind of exposure, then I would suggest this route is no harder than 5.8. Jun 22, 2014
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
2nd & 3rd pitches have like 5 pieces of fixed gear. Yellow alien, BD #4, Grey TCU, and a few more. You can not carry those pieces. :) BTW we did it in 2 pitches with a 60. Belay about fifteen feet above that first roof and then climb to the top. Second pitch is a super long pitch so bring those extendo's. Belay off the tree or if your as stretched as we were you can belay right at the top out with a #3 BD and 2 #1 BD's in a cool little crack 5 feet past the edge. Good dike climbing with a FEW crack moves. Jul 14, 2014
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
I did not find any fixed cams or nuts on this climb today. It was a nice cool, cloudy and breezy August day, with not a single other party on the route. Aug 12, 2014
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
Very sustained route, with somewhat tricky gear. Solid lead. Use sunscreen. Jul 5, 2015
klane Lane  
First pitch takes amazing gear--be sure to bring your stoppers. if your shorter than 5'6" the crux will be in the first 20 ft where you have to do a little dyno to an excellent hold. But the gear is good and the rock is solid--go for it! The second pitch isn't as straight forward and offers more thoughtful gear placements as well as climbing. Jul 28, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great climb, and the route met our (high) expectations.

Gear seemed plentiful and not the least bit tricky to me... and I am a wimp and place lots of gear. I do carry offset nuts, so perhaps those helped. Oct 11, 2015
Michael Dom
Michael Dom  
I was really happy to get on this route. The first 15 feet involve a few awkward moves, but it is definitely reasonable. My partner and I did the route in 2 pitches with a 70. Dec 13, 2015
Question: I'm a Gunks climber, so I suck at crack climbing. Would you give this a G rating for gear? Are there decent features on the face to use as well for most of the climb? From the pics, it looks like there are dikes and other features for feet. Looking forward to getting out there on that fine, fine rock! May 12, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Wes P
Reno, NV
Wes P   Reno, NV

Did it in three pitches with 60 meter to avoid the horrible rope drag. Building an anchor for the 2nd pitch belay is not optimal. I did it right under the big roof where there is a bomber BD #2 placement. I also placed a good BD #1 and an okay BD #0.1.

BD #3 protects crux on pitch 1. May 16, 2016
M Ono  
There is a fixed .3 on the first pitch. I tried to get it out but didn't succeed as one of the wires connected to the deeper lobe is snapped. Wouldn't clip it! Oct 30, 2017
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
Seth Hogan: "Very sustained route, with somewhat tricky gear. Solid lead. Use sunscreen." When I first read this my gut reaction would be, "Gosh, wouldn't that just make it much harder"? And then I realized what you meant by the sunscreen reference, like for your face and legs and stuff. It's been a long day. May 14, 2018
Ryan Pfleger
North Lake Tahoe, CA
Ryan Pfleger   North Lake Tahoe, CA
After the thread about the 1st pitch pro, I paid close attention. Climb has sufficient pro everywhere its needed. There was a fixed nut where the crack begins which I backed up I think with a blue X4. Still had enough room in the pod for my fingers. Oct 19, 2018
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
Great climb, not as intuitive or splitter as I presumed it would be seeing that it shoots straight up the East Wall. I wasn't stoked on the belay options for the 2nd pitch. There were some comfy stances but available pro and rock quality wasn't the best (left of the bolted anchor of Labor). If I repeated the climb I would probably climb higher or belay lower at a hanging belay for better gear.
The roof section is sweet! Nov 6, 2018