Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Connor, David Babich, 1978
Page Views: 3,438 total, 34/month
Shared By: Victor on Jul 15, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

First pitch (190ft) goes up a finger crack, then a bit of dike hiking to finish the pitch. Second pitch (150ft) is a bit unclear. The route we took goes up just right of the belay station, then tends towards the dihedral on the left.

Location

50ft to the west of Psychedelic Tree the trail curves down and right towards the Central Wall. From here stay left along the wall, on a faint trail. This leads to the start of Fandango.

Protection

Standard Rack to 2.5", nuts, focus on small cams.
Gear anchor (possibly bolts?) for first pitch. Pitons at the top of the route.

Photos

Felt relatively sustained 5.9. Last slab on second pitch is pretty dirty. I ended up traversing left into some jugs, skipping the slab. Fun route. Sep 2, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
The first pitch was good but the second is the worst pitch I have been on at the Leap. Sep 17, 2016
Connor Newman
Reno, NV
 
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
 
I'd recommend wearing a helmet at the base of this one. While belaying my leader the rope knocked loose a baseball sized rock from about 100 ft up that hit within a foot of me. You don't have much room to try and jump out of the way either with that small ledge. Sep 11, 2016
RonC
Roseville, CA
RonC   Roseville, CA
Climbed route yesterday. On the approach, we got buzzed by a rattlesnake in the brush. Heeded the warning and stepped around. Agree with bone dry cappuccino comments on gear selection.
1st pitch is ~190ft and sustained 5.9. We thought it was more difficult than Psychedelic Tree, just left of this climb, which we climbed first. 2nd pitch does wander a bit, has loose rock and vegetation that you can navigate through, protects reasonably well, and angles up right corner to the top just below tree stump you can see at very top of climb. 1st pitch belay shares same ledge system as Psych Tree which you can traverse over to and may be a better top out to consider. An adventurous climb overall. Aug 28, 2016
Lurker
Verdi, NV
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
Is this the route that people use as a rappel route (since that descent is so brutal)? I vaguely remember doing the first pitch, which I thought was quite good, and while belaying the second, having a guy rappel over me (knocking off a couple small rocks and dirt down with him). I mentioned that next time he might want to verify that someone wasn't climbing the route before he went to rappel it, and he informed me that he was linking a bunch of routes on the Main Wall and didn't have time for the descent. D-bag. May 25, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
I always thought Fandango had a pretty cool top out. That weirdly textured slab followed by the awkward corner thing to an excellent (although sandy) ledge to belay from. The corner has some grass, but nothing horrible.

The worst top out at the leap is on the North Face route. Miles of rotten low angle rock, sand and lichen capped with an almost impenetrable wall of bushes and no anchor. You just burrow your way down in the bushes and hold on. Dec 29, 2015
My boyfriend and I just did the route yesterday. Nice route, decent quality rock, no loose blocks and good protection all the way up. We would recommend a double set of small to 2 inch cams, one 2 1/2 inch cam and a double set of nuts. The 2nd pitch wanders a bit, so bring a few double-length slings.

Very good climbing with the caveat that Fandango has the worst top-off of the Leap, and this right next to the spectacular one at Psychedelic Tree. The very last 30 feet before topping out is very dirty, guess this route doesn't see much traffic.

But overall, a very good climb with no lines!
Jul 7, 2014