Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: George Connor, David Babich, 1978
Page Views: 3,906 total · 34/month
Shared By: Victor on Jul 15, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

First pitch (190ft) goes up a finger crack, then a bit of dike hiking to finish the pitch. Second pitch (150ft) is a bit unclear. The route we took goes up just right of the belay station, then tends towards the dihedral on the left.

Location

50ft to the west of Psychedelic Tree the trail curves down and right towards the Central Wall. From here stay left along the wall, on a faint trail. This leads to the start of Fandango.

Protection

Standard Rack to 2.5", nuts, focus on small cams.
Gear anchor (possibly bolts?) for first pitch. Pitons at the top of the route.

Photos

My boyfriend and I just did the route yesterday. Nice route, decent quality rock, no loose blocks and good protection all the way up. We would recommend a double set of small to 2 inch cams, one 2 1/2 inch cam and a double set of nuts. The 2nd pitch wanders a bit, so bring a few double-length slings.

Very good climbing with the caveat that Fandango has the worst top-off of the Leap, and this right next to the spectacular one at Psychedelic Tree. The very last 30 feet before topping out is very dirty, guess this route doesn't see much traffic.

But overall, a very good climb with no lines!
Jul 7, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
I always thought Fandango had a pretty cool top out. That weirdly textured slab followed by the awkward corner thing to an excellent (although sandy) ledge to belay from. The corner has some grass, but nothing horrible.

The worst top out at the leap is on the North Face route. Miles of rotten low angle rock, sand and lichen capped with an almost impenetrable wall of bushes and no anchor. You just burrow your way down in the bushes and hold on. Dec 29, 2015
Lurker
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
Is this the route that people use as a rappel route (since that descent is so brutal)? I vaguely remember doing the first pitch, which I thought was quite good, and while belaying the second, having a guy rappel over me (knocking off a couple small rocks and dirt down with him). I mentioned that next time he might want to verify that someone wasn't climbing the route before he went to rappel it, and he informed me that he was linking a bunch of routes on the Main Wall and didn't have time for the descent. D-bag. May 25, 2016
RonC
Roseville, CA
RonC   Roseville, CA
Climbed route yesterday. On the approach, we got buzzed by a rattlesnake in the brush. Heeded the warning and stepped around. Agree with bone dry cappuccino comments on gear selection.
1st pitch is ~190ft and sustained 5.9. We thought it was more difficult than Psychedelic Tree, just left of this climb, which we climbed first. 2nd pitch does wander a bit, has loose rock and vegetation that you can navigate through, protects reasonably well, and angles up right corner to the top just below tree stump you can see at very top of climb. 1st pitch belay shares same ledge system as Psych Tree which you can traverse over to and may be a better top out to consider. An adventurous climb overall. Aug 28, 2016
Connor Newman
Reno, NV
 
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
 
I'd recommend wearing a helmet at the base of this one. While belaying my leader the rope knocked loose a baseball sized rock from about 100 ft up that hit within a foot of me. You don't have much room to try and jump out of the way either with that small ledge. Sep 11, 2016
Michael Dom  
 
The first pitch was good but the second is the worst pitch I have been on at the Leap. Sep 17, 2016
Pitch 1: Arguably the best single 5.9 pitch at the Leap. Great mainly finger crack climbing with plenty of great gear. Better than the first pitch of The Line. This line was completely overgrown a few years ago and never climbed . A couple of Tahoe climbers set about refurbishing the route to the classic it is again. Pitch 2: The old guide shows this as "easy" and "4th class". This is now incorrect. The second original pitch heads off right over shitty overgrown terrain. The newer Fandango 2nd pitch is great! Start straight up into a short splitter hand crack then back left into a corner that steepens. Above this climb 20 feet up a unique (for the Leap) slab full or quartzite crystals and the final steeper layback crack to the summit where a belay has to be built. Looks like 40 feet long from the belay but a a good 80 feet. When this was refurbished several years ago the FA George Conner was asked if he minded bolted belay anchors to be placed. He was all for it. At that time a nice 2 bolt chain anchor was placed after the long 180 ft 1st pitch and on the top. this was subsequently chopped and replaced and chopped again by self rightous, self appointed Lovers Leap police Jan 10, 2018
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
When this was refurbished several years ago the FA George Conner was asked if he minded bolted belay anchors to be placed. He was all for it. At that time a nice 2 bolt chain anchor was placed after the long 180 ft 1st pitch and on the top. this was subsequently chopped and replaced and chopped again by self rightous, self appointed Lovers Leap police

That's not exactly true. Connor was never asked if it was ok to place anchors on his route. The people who put the anchors on it only claimed they asked him to justify retrobolting the route so they could establish a rappel route down it. Even though there has been a rappel route 20ft to the left rotting away on the east wall for more than 30 years now. They weren't the ones who cleaned up the route either. When I personally asked George about the anchors he said and I quote "When we put the route up, we went out of our way to not place any fixed protection on it. That was the style back in the day. Its a shame no one respects that idea of clean climbing anymore. Its all about convenience these days I guess." The only thing was, he was not for the idea of starting a bolt war over such an insignificant route. But he definitely was not on board with the idea of fixed anchors on it. The natural gear anchor is good with plenty of options for gear.

The original second pitch is the one described and not the dirty slope off to the right. I talked to George about it and he stated the original description in the first Tahoe guidebook was wrong and that every guidebook since has just copied and pasted that mistake. The original second pitch climbs the obvious splitter crack to a mantle, then heads left into the right facing corner which ends at the slab. Then you top out by going up the dirty ramp to a sandy ledge on top. The original guide description only got the dirty ramp to the top part correct. Jan 12, 2018