The Last Sandwich
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | Steve Miller, Will Cottrell (1984) |
Page Views: | 1,151 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jun 30, 2014 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
The Last Sandwich is a sparsely protected route with mostly moderate but severely runnout climbing between protection with just a few spicy difficult sections to keep you on your toes.
Begin by climbing up the heavily diked face just left of Scimitar. Look for a lone bolt that protects the roof above. Climb over this roof and up more dikes to a two bolt anchor left of Scimitar.
Pitch two climbs up and right (over the belay of Scimitar) to a lone bolt out on the face. Mantles and slab will bring you to a gear anchor, or traverse over to the anchors on the second pitch of Fantasia.
Pitch three climbs up and right to a piton. Some very heady moves 5.10b/c above the pin, traversing back and forth upward brings you to the better protected roofs above.
Begin by climbing up the heavily diked face just left of Scimitar. Look for a lone bolt that protects the roof above. Climb over this roof and up more dikes to a two bolt anchor left of Scimitar.
Pitch two climbs up and right (over the belay of Scimitar) to a lone bolt out on the face. Mantles and slab will bring you to a gear anchor, or traverse over to the anchors on the second pitch of Fantasia.
Pitch three climbs up and right to a piton. Some very heady moves 5.10b/c above the pin, traversing back and forth upward brings you to the better protected roofs above.
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