Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,402 total · 10/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This fun low angle face climb starts on the far right side of the East Wall. The first bolt is 20ft up, but it is only 5.6 to that point. Follow a handful of well spaced bolts to the crack above. Fun lieback moves will get you to the anchor.

There is good gear on this climb, but it is well spaced to keep you on your toes. Probably not best climb for your first 5.10.

Location

Located about 20ft to the right of the Psychedelic Tree. It is the last bolted climb on the far right side of the East Wall.

Protection

A few large nuts, and a single set of cams to #1 camalot

Photos

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TinCrow
Ca
 
TinCrow   Ca
 
Nice route.Starts with four bolts, then I used #o-1(c3) for the first gear placement out left midway between bolt and first large roof/block. Then a couple more (Camalot c4).5-3.5 will protect the upper section well.
Fun to toprope Left side corner and face although they are a bit dirty. Jul 4, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Good lead, bolts near the hard spots and lots of varied climbing; face down low and crack/corner up high. Pretty clean for probably not getting much traffic. Sep 30, 2010
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
Didn't care for this route. Easy dike hikeing (5.8 tops) down low and into a funky short corner with tons of feet. Maybe one move of .10a and the rest much easier. Think I just used draws and a #1 C4 which protected the route well. Jul 18, 2011
The 4 bolts appear to be 1/4" button head bolts when I climbed it 9/13/2015. Can someone please verify this? The c3 placement didn't seem to be very obvious. I couldn't find any gear until I reached the giant flake above. Falling before placing gear in that giant flake could potentially ground the leader.

I rapped with a 60m rope and had to stand on a block and untie before reaching the ground. Sep 15, 2015
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
They are 3/8" rivets far as I remember. It takes the hand of god to remove those things. Sep 16, 2015
Connor Newman
Denver, CO
  5.10a PG13
Connor Newman   Denver, CO
  5.10a PG13
I thought that the first looked like a 3/8", but after that they certainly looked like 1/4" to me. Sep 11, 2016
Kevin Clark 1
Oakland
Kevin Clark 1   Oakland
Definitely enjoyed this route. Placed a 3 and a 2 on the crack because I am noob. The final move had me going from an off width to a mantle-to-face transfer. It was epic! May 22, 2017
I quite like this route. Clean slab/dike climbing that is a little sporty here and there. Then a final steeper big layback that take a 2 and /or 3 camalot. A fun TR for beginner/intermediate climbers.
The block sitting at the base was about 30 to 40 feet up and left of the second bolt (approx) a climber several years ago was nervous on lead and went out left to the block to pro it with the idea of moving back right onto the route. Unfortunately the entire block pulled and they both went to the ground where his hand was crushed and I believe amputated. My friend David Welsh was there and he and other climbers lifted the block off and facilitated his rescue. Jan 10, 2018