Labor of Love

Seems a little silly but I would like to set the record straight. This route was envisioned by me and was hand drilled ground up by me. Thus the name. It was then lead bottom to top by me and seconded by Toivo Kodas. The entire route was done on 9/12/87. We originally called it 5.9 for tall folks and 10- if you are short like me. Glad to see it is getting climbed as it was a lot of work to put it up. Feb 28, 2006

Calling that route a sport route is retarded, (no offence). It is most definitely a trad route with bolts for pro. A masterpiece of good style if I may say so myself. Apr 6, 2006

I'm 6'1" and the route felt about 5.10a to me. There was always a great bolt right where you wanted it. May 3, 2006

This climb gets my vote for the best 5.10 dike pitch at the Leap. I forgot how scary the climb is. There are some 5.9 mantles about 15-20ft out from the bolts. You will remember this climb after the rest become a distant memory. Oct 6, 2007

I don't know Andrew. I always wanted the bolt to be within reach before making the awkward mantle. It always seemed like I was making the hardest move 15 ft above my last bolt, then making the clip.
Fun but scary route. May 27, 2009

5.9 for tall folks is fair, didn't seem like there were any "crux mantles 15 feet above bolts". I felt very secure on the easier climbing between bolts and also at the distinct crux with the bolt at my chest. Oct 26, 2009

I didn't realize this was your route Eric. Well done.

I think this was the first route I did at the Leap, which would mean it was the first pitch I had climbed in 6 weeks. I remember it taking a while to get used to the style, but I don't think I did any hard moves 15 feet above a bolt.

Fun climbing either way. Nov 1, 2011

I would say if you are less than 6 foot tall, stay away from this climb. There is a solid and super delicate 5.11 move below the first bolt which is 25+ feet up. IMHO, it's not worth it.

It's possible to climb the first pitch of the Line and traverse to the bolted anchor to install a top rope. Sep 25, 2012

I remember one very hard, height dependent move. The rest is solid 5.9/5.10-.
If you have the supertopo guide, disregard the recommended gear on the topo page -- this is a strictly bolted climb with no gear. Jan 28, 2013

A couple of things, I just did this route. You cannot rap off the first pitch w/a 70m, it's about 20ft. short...need two ropes as mentioned in route description. There are no hard mantles 20ft out from bolts. It's probably 5.9ish between bolts, with a definite crux at one of the bolts. Clipping the first bolt there is at most a 10a move to get up to where you can clip it. I'm a 5.11 face climber and 5'8"...the crux was 5.11 for me and was not able to get it clean as the hold is 6 inches out of reach. I'd say it's mid 5.11 for anyone under 6 feet tall as others mentioned. Excellent face climb. Jun 14, 2014

I don't know, I'm not 6 feet tall and the crux move is maybe just a little delicate smear move to reach the hold with a bolt in your face. I've seen short people walk it that weren't 5.11 climbers. You just gotta step up on that dike nubbin and trust the rubber.

As for X or R rated or whatever, yeah right! There's maybe 12' or at most 15' between bolts through the easier sections with all the cruxy moves next to a bolt. To the first bolt is a 5.6 dike hike. I only give it a PG 13 because of all those meaty dikes below. I don't know, if this feels really runnout to you, you're in for one hell of a surprise if you keep climbing and one day decide to branch out in the "trad" world.

And for all our sake, don't even think about ever doing the second and third pitches... ever! Jun 16, 2014

We rapped this route today with a single 70m rope. It required downclimbing from just below the first bolt, about 15 ft down the easy 5.5ish dikes. Just be careful to watch the end of your rope and keep the ends even Jul 6, 2014

I did the FA. I am 5.6. I don't mind if someone adds a bolt between the ground and the first bolt. It does appear a lot of people have done it as is so I leave it to the locals to add or not add. We were more about having a good head then, safety came from being solid mentally. May 21, 2015

It is run-out to the first bolt, but I am just thankful that we have the route. Great, regardless of the spacing. Dec 13, 2015

Really good route. At 6' tall I was just able to make the long reach - Just!.
For the most part it's well protected and nicely bolted, the only downside is the placement of the first and last bolts. The first bolt could have been 4' lower at the end of the 5.7 dyke hike, rather than just past a 5.9/10a move. And I thought the last bolt was way scary. It's right after a very delicate balancy move 12-15' above the previous bolt. It would not be a pleasant fall! Jun 4, 2016

Recently climbed this. When I was 62 and young I used to be able to make the crux reach move. Now that I am 72 and elderly, I can't quite reach the crux dike but, as you get older you get more clever, I figured out a way to go right around the crux. I think I shrunk one inch from age 62 to 72. A 70m rope is a bit short but the downclimb is doable. If you want to have more fun, climb the next two pitches of this climb (Showtime). I did it when I was young (see above) Now that I'm elderly, I require more bolts than Showtime provides. Dec 21, 2016