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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: [[Eric Rhicard]]105797324 & Toivo Kodas, Sep 12, 1987
Page Views: 3,586 total, 25/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This climb is located just to the right of "The Line". It is a fun dike climb with big reaches and runouts. If you are short, this climb may feel like 5.11. It will probably feel on the easy side if you tall. The crux is well protected, but there are 15-20ft runouts on easier rock. Rap with two ropes from chains...

Protection

bolts..

Photos

John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
Recently climbed this. When I was 62 and young I used to be able to make the crux reach move. Now that I am 72 and elderly, I can't quite reach the crux dike but, as you get older you get more clever, I figured out a way to go right around the crux. I think I shrunk one inch from age 62 to 72. A 70m rope is a bit short but the downclimb is doable. If you want to have more fun, climb the next two pitches of this climb (Showtime). I did it when I was young (see above) Now that I'm elderly, I require more bolts than Showtime provides. Dec 21, 2016
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10b PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10b PG13
Really good route. At 6' tall I was just able to make the long reach - Just!.
For the most part it's well protected and nicely bolted, the only downside is the placement of the first and last bolts. The first bolt could have been 4' lower at the end of the 5.7 dyke hike, rather than just past a 5.9/10a move. And I thought the last bolt was way scary. It's right after a very delicate balancy move 12-15' above the previous bolt. It would not be a pleasant fall! Jun 4, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.10b PG13
Michael Dom  
  5.10b PG13
It is run-out to the first bolt, but I am just thankful that we have the route. Great, regardless of the spacing. Dec 13, 2015
I did the FA. I am 5.6. I don't mind if someone adds a bolt between the ground and the first bolt. It does appear a lot of people have done it as is so I leave it to the locals to add or not add. We were more about having a good head then, safety came from being solid mentally. May 21, 2015
We rapped this route today with a single 70m rope. It required downclimbing from just below the first bolt, about 15 ft down the easy 5.5ish dikes. Just be careful to watch the end of your rope and keep the ends even Jul 6, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.10a/b PG13
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.10a/b PG13
I don't know, I'm not 6 feet tall and the crux move is maybe just a little delicate smear move to reach the hold with a bolt in your face. I've seen short people walk it that weren't 5.11 climbers. You just gotta step up on that dike nubbin and trust the rubber.

As for X or R rated or whatever, yeah right! There's maybe 12' or at most 15' between bolts through the easier sections with all the cruxy moves next to a bolt. To the first bolt is a 5.6 dike hike. I only give it a PG 13 because of all those meaty dikes below. I don't know, if this feels really runnout to you, you're in for one hell of a surprise if you keep climbing and one day decide to branch out in the "trad" world.

And for all our sake, don't even think about ever doing the second and third pitches... ever! Jun 16, 2014
Jamie Silliman
Wilton, CA
Jamie Silliman   Wilton, CA
A couple of things, I just did this route. You cannot rap off the first pitch w/a 70m, it's about 20ft. short...need two ropes as mentioned in route description. There are no hard mantles 20ft out from bolts. It's probably 5.9ish between bolts, with a definite crux at one of the bolts. Clipping the first bolt there is at most a 10a move to get up to where you can clip it. I'm a 5.11 face climber and 5'8"...the crux was 5.11 for me and was not able to get it clean as the hold is 6 inches out of reach. I'd say it's mid 5.11 for anyone under 6 feet tall as others mentioned. Excellent face climb. Jun 14, 2014
BrianWS
  5.10b
BrianWS  
  5.10b
I remember one very hard, height dependent move. The rest is solid 5.9/5.10-.
If you have the supertopo guide, disregard the recommended gear on the topo page -- this is a strictly bolted climb with no gear. Jan 28, 2013
Patrick M.
Vancouver
5.11b X
Patrick M.   Vancouver
5.11b X
I would say if you are less than 6 foot tall, stay away from this climb. There is a solid and super delicate 5.11 move below the first bolt which is 25+ feet up. IMHO, it's not worth it.

It's possible to climb the first pitch of the Line and traverse to the bolted anchor to install a top rope. Sep 25, 2012
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
 
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
 
I didn't realize this was your route Eric. Well done.

I think this was the first route I did at the Leap, which would mean it was the first pitch I had climbed in 6 weeks. I remember it taking a while to get used to the style, but I don't think I did any hard moves 15 feet above a bolt.

Fun climbing either way. Nov 1, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
5.9 for tall folks is fair, didn't seem like there were any "crux mantles 15 feet above bolts". I felt very secure on the easier climbing between bolts and also at the distinct crux with the bolt at my chest. Oct 26, 2009
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
 
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
 
I don't know Andrew. I always wanted the bolt to be within reach before making the awkward mantle. It always seemed like I was making the hardest move 15 ft above my last bolt, then making the clip.
Fun but scary route. May 27, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This climb gets my vote for the best 5.10 dike pitch at the Leap. I forgot how scary the climb is. There are some 5.9 mantles about 15-20ft out from the bolts. You will remember this climb after the rest become a distant memory. Oct 6, 2007
I'm 6'1" and the route felt about 5.10a to me. There was always a great bolt right where you wanted it. May 3, 2006
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.10a/b PG13
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.10a/b PG13
Calling that route a sport route is retarded, (no offence). It is most definitely a trad route with bolts for pro. A masterpiece of good style if I may say so myself. Apr 6, 2006
Seems a little silly but I would like to set the record straight. This route was envisioned by me and was hand drilled ground up by me. Thus the name. It was then lead bottom to top by me and seconded by Toivo Kodas. The entire route was done on 9/12/87. We originally called it 5.9 for tall folks and 10- if you are short like me. Glad to see it is getting climbed as it was a lot of work to put it up. Feb 28, 2006