Elevation: 6,241 ft
GPS: 38.803, -120.132 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 226,104 total · 1,031/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

This area contains mostly trad lines from 5.6 - 5.11+. Most routes are in the 5.8-5.9 range, and anchors are rarely bolted. This 400 foot face is the far left side of Lover's Leap, with very dikey vertical and slab climbing up faces and cracks. There are a few additional bolts in place on the rock, but not enough to call any routes sport. This wall has the highest concentration of classic trade routes, making it one of the more popular destinations at the leap.

Almost all of Lover's Leap is featured granite, and for those looking for a polished Yosemite-like quality of rock, you should look somewhere else! The Leap and especially East Wall is covered in dikes, sometimes almost half a foot wide making routes that would otherwise be difficult and very steep into exciting and wildly exposed routes that go at typically moderate grades. You will find this rock in the sun in the afternoon, as it faces Northwest. This will make the rock quite hot on a warm sunny summer day. You are at about 6,100 feet, which helps with the heat somewhat, but not with the sun exposure!

Almost all routes require a walk off the top, there is a convenient trail to the left of the East Wall. There is a spring running behind East Wall that has fresh clean and cold water bubbling out of the ground and running down hill alongside the trail. Please help keep this spring clean and do not use the bathroom or wash yourself off anywhere near it.

Getting There

Approach: Total time: 15 minutes

East Wall Approach Beta: 

Recently we've done some trail work at the East Wall to help mitigate increasing erosion by reducing braided social trails and eroding platforms. In order to better preserve the cliff base area please use the TWO 'main' approach trails to the East Wall:

1 - The Pop Bottle / East Corner Approach:

From the Campground / Day Use Parking (West) - hike east on the Pony Express trail below the Lower Buttress, Main Wall, Central Wall and East Wall. Walk ALL THE WAY to the far east end of the East Wall where the shaded wooden food storage box is located. Take the obvious trail through the brush into the talus at a point just below East Corner and Haystack. Enter the talus at a point where it is both low and only a short distance from the wall. 

From here the talus trail forks left and right:

 

A) Take the left fork to the base of Pop Bottle - from the main Pony Express trail enter the talus and then trend left to the obvious break in the brush, hiking up a set of natural steps/benches in the rock to the base of Pop Bottle. 

B) Take the right fork to the base of East Corner/Haystack - from the main trail enter the talus and hike directly straight up through the flat area. As you being climbing up the talus trend slightly LEFT through the obvious well cut trail along the left edge of the talus cone. This trail will deposit you directly at the base of the first pitch of East Corner. Haystack starts 10 feet to the right. 

DO NOT HIKE DIRECTLY UP THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE TALUS OR UP THE LAZY SOCIAL TRAIL THAT CUTS DIRECTLY TO THE BASE OF HAYSTACK. These social trails have been closed as they are increasing erosion along the cliff base trail. 

2 - The Line Approach: 

From the Campground / Day Use Parking (West) - hike east on the Pony Express trail below the Lower Buttress, Main Wall, Central Wall and East Wall. At a point when you are almost directly below the obvious line of The Line there is a well worn, well cut trail through the brush that begins this approach. You should be at a point where the Pony Express trail is (almost) at its farthest distance from the wall. Enter this trail winding right then left and then right again until you reach the base of the talus. Look up and you'll see several very large boulders as well as a large gnarled tree. Follow the path of least resistance through the talus staying to the climbers' RIGHT of the largest boulders AND to the climbers' RIGHT of the large tree. The talus will lead directly to the base of the wall 20ft to the right of The Line cutting through the brush on a very wide, well worn and well maintained trail. 

DO NOT HIKE DIRECTLY UP TO THE LINE from the left side of the tree as you'll have to bushwack across the bench below the cliff trail. 

Please NOTE that there is NO DIRECT TRAIL to Bear's Reach. Please do NOT move boulders around below these climbs to create benches and cheater platforms to keep your shoes clean. Constant removal of rocks that are in place to create trails drastically increases erosion. 

Using these two main trail options will help reduce erosion at the cliff base and help prevent situations such as those below Surrealistic Pillar on the Lower Buttress or below Pony Express at Sugarloaf, where in both cases the ground at the base of the wall is literally falling away from the cliff due to erosion. Thanks!

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 147
East Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 733
Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 269
Pop Bottle
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 558
Haystack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 158
Preparation H
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 304
East Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 69
Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 567
The Line
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 158
Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 10
Fear No Evil
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 152
Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Fandango
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 67
Labor of Love
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
A Few Dollars More.
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 63
East Corner
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Wall
 147
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bear's Reach
 733
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pop Bottle
 269
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Haystack
 558
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Preparation H
 158
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
East Crack
 304
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fantasia
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
The Line
 567
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Scimitar
 158
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Fear No Evil
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Psychedelic Tree
 152
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fandango
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Labor of Love
 67
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
A Few Dollars More.
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
East Corner
 63
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
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