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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Flying Circus/ Fireworks combo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Description

This area contains mostly trad lines from 5.6 - 5.11+. Most routes are in the 5.8-5.9 range, and anchors are rarely bolted. This 400 foot face is the far left side of Lover's Leap, with very dikey vertical and slab climbing up faces and cracks. There are a few additional bolts in place on the rock, but not enough to call any routes sport. This wall has the highest concentration of classic trade routes, making it one of the more popular destinations at the leap.

Almost all of Lover's Leap is featured granite, and for those looking for a polished Yosemite-like quality of rock, you should look somewhere else! The Leap and especially East Wall is covered in dikes, sometimes almost half a foot wide making routes that would otherwise be difficult and very steep into exciting and wildly exposed routes that go at typically moderate grades. You will find this rock in the sun in the afternoon, as it faces Northwest. This will make the rock quite hot on a warm sunny summer day. You are at about 6,100 feet, which helps with the heat somewhat, but not with the sun exposure!

Almost all routes require a walk off the top, there is a convenient trail to the left of the East Wall. There is a spring running behind East Wall that has fresh clean and cold water bubbling out of the ground and running down hill alongside the trail. Please help keep this spring clean and do not use the bathroom or wash yourself off anywhere near it.

Getting There

Approach: Total time: 15 minutes

From the main trail, head uphill (left at the fork just past the parking lot) about a 1/2 mile on the wide open rocky trail. As the path winds, you will see many smaller trails leading up to Lover's Leap. You should avoid the temptation of taking them,and stay on the main trail until it bends and is about 100 yards from the start of the climbing. The final path leading up to the East Face is very wide, and will take you to a side-windy uphill hike that takes less than 5 minutes from the main trail, and stays wide until just before the East Wall. This path runs you right into the start of the East Corner (5.10d).

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 110
East Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 577
Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 208
Pop Bottle
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 435
Haystack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
Preparation H
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 232
East Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 52
Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 458
The Line
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 122
Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 8
Fear No Evil
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 102
Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
Fandango
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 49
Labor of Love
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
A Few Dollars More.
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 44
East Corner
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Wall
 110
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bear's Reach
 577
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pop Bottle
 208
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Haystack
 435
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Preparation H
 117
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
East Crack
 232
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fantasia
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
The Line
 458
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Scimitar
 122
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Fear No Evil
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 4 pitches
Psychedelic Tree
 102
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Fandango
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Labor of Love
 49
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
A Few Dollars More.
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
East Corner
 44
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
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