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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: TM Herber, Bob Kamps 1969
Page Views: 4,449 total, 31/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a under appreciated corner of rock that doesn't see the traffic that it deserves. The line is clean thin technical and well protected. The grade deters most people I'm sure but if you can climb 5.10a you can climb this route. The crux is a short mantle over a bulge, a two move wonder. The rest is no harder than .10a. You can easily pull on gear over the bulge if you decide you can't do it. Bring small gear. After you climb over the crux bulge/roof, continue up about 40ft and climb out of the corner when the crack begins to disappear. Two bolts await.

Location

Climb any number of routes to reach the corner alcove. My recommendation is to climb Preparation H and traverse out left on the ledge at the first belay into the corner. The original route starts in a 5.8 crack to the left of Haystack called Micro Brew. The best way down is to walk off the top like most routes on East Wall.

Protection

Cams 1-2ea .5"-3" Nuts 1set.

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
The roof pull is mellow, it is the tiny crack that leads up to it that caused me distress. This climb was pretty mangy. Expect to do a lot of cleaning on lead. Sep 15, 2016
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Indeed, textbook .10a up to the roof, just slightly thin and fiddly gear for your average 5.10 route. You usually don't see thin gear like that until you're in the upper .11's and .12's. But the angle of the wall really keeps the grade in check.

...And the roof goes at 5.10d as stated in the book(The "real" book). Of course, only if you find all the microfeatures;) Jun 9, 2014
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
  5.11b
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
  5.11b
The crack thins out, but there are inobvious microfeatures on both walls that allow it to go- its 10a up to there, and then the 5.11 work begins under and through the roof. Was very happy to pull it off free yesterday Jun 9, 2014
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
 
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
 
I agree with Peter - the corner is cool, but getting up under the roof is very thin. Climbed this on 5/31 and there was quite a bit of dirt and grass in the crack, which forced me to aid one move below the roof and french free the roof. The crack takes small nuts and many small cams (blue alien, red/green C3). I had one of each and wished I had doubles or more. The crack thins out about 6 ft below the roof - thinner than tips for me. Above the roof, the climbing eases up and an airy step left out of the corner gets you to the bolted anchor on Pop Bottle (about 100 ft pitch). Jun 2, 2014
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.11b
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.11b
The corner is one of the best pitches at the leap! Warning: it can be running with water early season.. making it very full value (crux felt like Moratorium wet). I don't see how you could aid it at 5.10a... maybe it was the wetness, but it felt like 5.10c/d gaining the roof with small gear at your feet.. heads up for sure, I wouldn't head up there if 5.10a was your limit.

As for April 20 there was a big snow patch at the mid-way ledge (10'x6'), it was hard to keep our rope dry. Apr 23, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
If you mistake P1 of East Corner for P1 of Haystack you will end up wondering why P2 of East Corner seems really, really hard for 5.8! Retreating from the crux overhang and finishing up P2 of Pop Bottle seemed like a good idea. Sep 14, 2012
Phil Esra  
 
Bring lots of little cams and nuts. I didn't place anything bigger than a .75 camalot. Traversing right under the roof for 5 feet or so (to a drilled pin) puts you on Out to Lunge, 10d--turn the roof then get back in the corner. Getting to the roof is definitely harder than p1 of sinbad/herbert or surreal pillar direct. A 3.5-star route. Aug 1, 2011
Anders
Berkeley
  5.11 PG13
Anders   Berkeley
  5.11 PG13
Just attempted this yesterday. The corner on the second pitch is very thin and balancey before the roof. Supertopo calls it .11b and Falcon calls it 10d, I'm inclined to agree the former. In any case, it is a stunning and inspiring line with good, albeit thin, gear. Jul 6, 2011
Nat Lim  
Climbed this route last month, the belay has 2 solid 3/8" and a lone 1/4", which looks pretty solid...it holds, so that has to count for something... Jul 11, 2008
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Was responding in general terms, and hopefully to dispel the question of whether or not 1/4" bolts are bomber (NO!). I have no idea if the bolts on the top of p2 are 1/4". It might be worth looking into. Anyone else know? May 31, 2008
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Rules of thumb:

1/4": bad. 3/8": good. 1/2": excellent. 5/8": sandstone (and still crossing fingers!) or used to hold buildings to their foundations in earthquake retrofits.

1/4" bolts are not a standard anymore, they're usually somewhat rusted out at this point, and look like they're a little bent. May 29, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.11a/b
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.11a/b
I could have swore they were 1/4 inch but then again I was a little spent and the wind was really kicken up that day at the top. Plus aren't 1/4 inch bolts all bomber??? ;} May 24, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Hey Karsten, that corner leading up to the roof is thin, polished and pretty insecure feeling, I wouldn't argue with someone who said it was .10a+. heh. Especially if the grass is thick in the crack. I think I had the first ascent of the season in 07, and trying to rand smear in the corner, crushing grass and getting the rubber wet makes it tougher!

Old 1/4" bolts? I don't remember them being bad. YOu're talking about the double bolt station shared with pop bottle, up the corner and just left? May 21, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.11a/b
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.11a/b
A beautiful line. The supertopo guide lists microbrew as a thin crack traversing in from the right.

For the first pitch I did a mediocre 5.7 directly up to the ledge between microbrew and Haystack. It was ok but dirty in a few places. Also the pro got sparce just below the ledge so I did a little traverse out right on the face and then back to the ledge.

The 2nd pitch corner felt harder than the .10a that everyone is talking about to me but the roof felt more .11a like. Make what you will of that. I agree with caughtinside about the small gear and would even recommend triples in the green and yellow aliens. I usuallly scoff when a route says doubles on nuts but I used up every single one of mine on this beautiful pitch.

I also belayed about 10ft up from the old 1/4inch bolts on small hand size pieces and could see the follower alot better. May 14, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
also, I'd supplement that gear rack with more small stuff. Double blue and green aliens would be really nice to have. May 12, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This really is a fine route and worth doing, even if you have to aid the crux. The corner leading up to the roof is fun and sustained slick corner work around .9 or .10a.

The first pitch is worth doing as well, I thought it was pretty interesting, and a challenging .9. Sep 4, 2007