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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FFA: Jim Orey, F. Van Overbeck 1972
Page Views: 7,961 total, 56/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A definite step up from the Line. This route has beautiful crack systems, roofs, bulges, route finding and a short heady unprotected face section. The crux is pulling the exposed roof after the 5.6R section on the second pitch. After negociating the first pitch its a strait line to the top. Some wandering from right to left and back is required to find the best holds on the runnout section.

Location

Just to the right of Fantasia and the left of East Crack. Ask someone, they'll point it out.

Protection

Cams 1-2ea .5"-3" Nuts 1set.
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9 R
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9 R
I agree with Salamanizer, the right way through the runout is the route to take. Oct 22, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Had an adventure (more for the worse) on this route yesterday. Will most likely add another star to my rating after I go repeat it in the future. Thought provoking crack climbing with (for me) a slap in the face of route finding.
Hopped on thinking we were on Bear's Reach and decided to just go with it halfway up P1. The runout is never harder than 5.6, I agree the route goes at 5.9/5.6 R. I got seriously lost in the runout section because I didn't check any guides, ended up clipping the bolt then the anchor further left and wandering around and downclimbing, only to lower off the anchor back to the P1 belay.
After resetting and checking resources I found my way up to the crack which provides plenty of options for good pro. The rest of the climb was still thought provoking and I'd bet because of earlier I always questioned whether I was on route or not.

Because of how much the grade and runout are discussed in the comments here, I think the "R" rating should be removed. No section of the route is 5.9 R and it scares away anyone redpointing around that grade.

The climb provides good crack climbing, interesting dyke face climbing, and a couple bouldery crux moves. 100% worthwhile, says a guy who had a bad day on the route. Aug 26, 2017
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
On the first pitch, about 2/3 of the way up there are two "overlapping" options. I suggest taking the left option. It may look harder but it is more direct and your pro has less chance of pulling out when you get above it. Oct 21, 2016
Michael Dom  
 
The guide book recommends the easy escape out right on the last pitch. Don't do it! Instead, break out left after the first roof and climb the corner to a slab out left. from there you will get to lieback over the slab and enjoy some serious air and exposure! Don't fall though or you will hit the slab. This tops you out next to a tree. Belay off of it and ponder just how much fun you had. Oct 3, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.9 R
These moves definitely felt like 5.9. You can be sporty up some of the roof sections (like on p2) but otherwise I remember definitely throwing a fist jam and finger lock here and there. FYI, at the second belay before p3 we got there and someone took a shit on the bush, coloring the rock (near holds!) underneath it. Don't take a shit on the bush and leave toilet paper there, even if the previous pitch is a bit heady!

Speaking of heady, I belayed my leader up like 30-40 feet of dike climbing on p2 before he was able to place any gear. The topo says 5.6 but I think that depends on how you choose to go up it... my climbing partner said that what he did felt harder than 5.6, so just be careful, because you do not want to slip there...lol.

On p3, after leaving the dihedral system and getting up the first roof, go left and avoid the second roof move up the corner for much easier climbing which still also feels around the 5.9 range. Jun 30, 2015
cdavey
 
cdavey  
 
This route is the jam! The pitches just kept getting better and better. Quality stuff. Jun 1, 2015
mac345
Reno, Nv
mac345   Reno, Nv
it always seems like this is the first route i always do at the leap cause everywhere else is packed with peeps. This route is simply amazing, if you can comfortably lead the first the second will go down easily, just keep your head on and if you look a little to the left there is an opportunity for an blue bd nut in a small flake to the left of the direction of travel on the runnout, but still runout no matter what you do, im 5.6 and believe still its 5.6, but def 5.6R. Also on the third pitch stay through the roofs and dont move on to the arete it adds some beautiful roof moves, and you will love it. Apr 27, 2015
tahoemnts Schroeder
Truckee, California
 
tahoemnts Schroeder   Truckee, California
 
Climbed this yesterday when all the other climbs had a line at the base. I agree it's a step up from the Line for sure. And yes it's 5.9R undoubtedly. You need to be comfortable with 40-50 runout w/o protection. The guide calls the runout 5.6...I suppose so, but it seemed a bit more of a challenge than 5.6..but probably just cause it's run out with no pro.

Great challenges on every pitch. You want to be solid 5.9 before leading this climb. We did this after Hospital Corner which as a whole, I thought Scimitar was more difficult in its entirety. Hospital Corner may be a bit more vertical...but its gear is clean and obvious...not so on Scimitar.

Adventure climb and some loose rock. There's a rock on the 5.6 run out that someone needs to toss off when it's clear below otherwise it's gonna fall eventually.

I went right from anchor about 15 ft, then up the dikes and right to the 5.9 crack. I never read any of this beta prior to the climb since it was a last second decision :) Oct 12, 2014
wurstertx
  5.9 R
wurstertx  
  5.9 R
Climbed this route around 5 years ago and again last week. Led the second pitch both times and do not recall any difficulties from the first time. This time - I noticed the fresh rock scar where something large had apparently come off but was not greatly concerned until I climbed up to this position. I did not see an easy route up and can only assume that I perhaps stood on this block to gain the positive holds that I could see above. I am 5' 5" and agree with Salamanizer that this is now much harder than 5.6 ( I did not try it) for shorter climbers. I felt comfortable to down climb to the belay from where I was - but decided to "wander" around some to see if I could find a comfortable passage.

I apparently completely missed the "easiest going right" route described by Salamanizer and ended up well (10- 15') right of the vertical crack/roof that I knew was on route above. I did however find a solid looking fixed LA that I clipped and headed straight up and left from there. I was looking hard and completely missed the easy 5.6 route right as some moves I made the way I went were certainly above 5.6 (IMHO)

So - I would call the route overall 5.9 R as unless you know exactly where you are going or are 6' tall (follow the rock scar) - you could find yourself run out on moves above 5.6. Maybe best to follow second pitch first time to see how it goes.

This route was fun but obviously much less traveled than the trade routes at LL. Lichen, brush and even a large delicate looking blooming plant right below the second belay! If it was lower on the pitch - I would have slung it!

Be careful out there... Sep 18, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
There are others who upstage routes (as opposed to down grade them) to put a band aid on their bruised egos as well.

Now, I've climbed this route a dozen times with a dozen different partners.
One thing I've nailed down for sure is there are three ways to negotiate the R section. Left, Right and Center.

Left is exposed and steep. The traverse is easy but getting there puts the pucker on. And you're directly over your belayer. Don't get suckered into the bolt further out left. That's for The Last Sandwich. Still only 5.6 moves.

Center is where the block fell out. It makes the reach to the good hold about a foot longer. If you're short, it could make the move potentially much harder than 5.7 even. I thought it was a stretch and I'm 5'11". I see a lot of people try to go this way. It is NOT the easiest option. Never has been. Though it is the most DIRECT way.

The Right way is the "Right" way IMO. Get it? ;)
Yes, the traverse over there is spooky off the anchor because you feel like you're way out there, but you'll thank yourself when you move up and all the holds are big scoops all the way to the roof.



Being a solid 5.9 climber on a route that protects well is very different from climbing a 5.6 (or 5.7) runout. Some people find runout challenging even at lower grades, and those comments trivializing it or dismissing what some might think are hard psychological moves because of the runout, do nothing to help people trying to get actual beta. It's just you trying to show off.

I think that pretty much goes for everyone, no matter your abilities. Climbing a route that is near to at your limit for you and R rated is insaine. Theres as fine a line between Boldness and Cowardess as there is between Prudence and Stupidity.
But at the same time, the grade still remains the same. Regardless whether you're free soloing or top roping. Sep 8, 2014
Angie C
Seattle, Wa
 
Angie C   Seattle, Wa
 
Yes, a block fell out in the middle of the 5.6 runout. You can see where it fell because the rock is white there and there is dirt right below it. I disagree with the gentleman above who thinks it is still 5.6. I would say a definite 5.7 move in the middle of 5.6 run out now with that block missing. You will know when you find the spot where the block fell because you will spend a while trying to figure out where the easy 5.6 move is supposed to be.

I find that on mountain project there are a couple of local veteran climbers who like to trivialize climbs that are below their personal average grade and somewhat sandbag mtn project readers in order to make their egos feel better. Yes, we get it. You are suuuuch a great climber! Now can we move on to giving real beta and not being so braggy/grumpy?

Being a solid 5.9 climber on a route that protects well is very different from climbing a 5.6 (or 5.7) runout. Some people find runout challenging even at lower grades, and those comments trivializing it or dismissing what some might think are hard psychological moves because of the runout, do nothing to help people trying to get actual beta. It's just you trying to show off. Sep 7, 2014
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
The block did nothing to affect the grade. Most people never even touched the thing in the prior 45 years it was sitting there obviously loose.

The runnout is still 5.6 and quite trivial for anyone with any business being on a 5.9 route. Jul 7, 2014
Could someone confirm, after the loose block is gone, the runout section is still 5.6? or what is the grade you think it feel like now? Thanks. Jul 7, 2014
I just climbed this route today...did not see any loose block on the 2nd pitch off the belay...looks like its gone from that rock fall last month...Great Climb! Jun 29, 2014
Nick_Cov
Truckee, CA
 
Nick_Cov   Truckee, CA
 
I was climbing Bear's Reach yesterday (5/17/14) and there was a party on Scimitar. We saw a girl following on P2 who accidentally pulled a HUGE block (~80 lbs). Thankfully everyone is okay and nobody was hurt. She looked about 20 feet above the belay so I think this may have been the loose block that everyone is talking about. I have not been on it since it was pulled so I cannot say for sure. May 18, 2014
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.9
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.9
Free BD wiregate carabiner in the bushes I dropped from the second belay ledge. Sep 9, 2013
the second and third pitch can be combined (barely) with careful rope management with a 70M rope. This is IMHO the best long pitch on the wall. Aug 6, 2013
ivo k
Sacramento, CA
 
ivo k   Sacramento, CA
 
I just climbed this wonderful route for my second time. I lead all 3 pitches.

If some one wants that is looking to improve their trad climbing skills (someone who can confidently climb 5.9) this is a good route. It has route finding at a moderate level, easy Runout to improve your head, but good pro in the difficult spots.

I hope nobody ever puts a bolt in the 5.6 R section on the second pitch.We should respect the original route design.
here you will gain experience for climbing R in other climbing areas.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE TO IMPROVE YOUR OWN CONFIDENCE AND SKILLS TO BECOME AND BE A BETTER CLIMBER

5.9-5.6R Oct 15, 2012
That short, easy, unprotected section has been one of the routes defining character building characteristics since it was first lead in boots in 1969.

+1.

Not every climb has to be 'enjoyable' and safe. If you want it to be that, stay at the gym, or sport climb. If this climb is altered, it will take away from the experience.

5.9 5.6R is correct. Jul 15, 2012
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
I would go along with an R rating, though I judge it PG13. Skip the derision--I second Mr. DiSciullo's ideas of dropping that block and setting a bolt. Better my belayer had been safer. It is runout right off the usual belay station or the bolt would be redundant.



Depends on your definitions of Runnout. I remember the first time I climbed the route as an unconfident noob. I thought it was a little spicy and definitely had the feeling that you didn't want to take that fall, but never really felt like it was dangerous or that I needed gear to get past it. The climbing is a one move wonder 5.6 and arguably that. Climbing is supposed to have a little uncertainty, spice and danger. It's what draws so many to it.

That block has been loose for decades. I guarantee the F.A. party didn't bother to place gear behind it because they were a competent party and anyone with any competence in climbing would know better. Now, you can't always protect the incompetent nor should you. If someone gets hurt placing gear behind a loose flake which pretty much no one else does, on a route that has been climbed in it's existing form for the past 43 years, does that responsibility fall on the shoulders of every other climber? The answer is NO! No one has the right to alter the characteristics of that long standing route because they felt "they" or "others" might not be quite up to it's challenges. That short, easy, unprotected section has been one of the routes defining character building characteristics since it was first lead in boots in 1969.

For these reasons among many others, a bolt wouldn't last one hour on this route.

Call it 5.9 (5.6-R) Jul 11, 2012
Bill Kelly
Lake Tahoe
Bill Kelly   Lake Tahoe
"do others agree with Charlie's R rating?"

How about 5.9/5.5R? ;) Oct 31, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9 R
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9 R
My favorite part of this climb is the crack after the 5.6 runout on the second pitch and the initial corner on the third pitch. Regarding the block, my opinion (for what its worth) is to trundle the block and be done at that. No need for a bolt. But maybe we could put up some plastic bucket holds (ala climbing gym) to make the runout more manageable ;> Oct 26, 2011
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I haven't climbed this, do others agree with Charlie's R rating? Aug 19, 2011
this route should be a 5.9R Jul 31, 2011
A decent route which is slightly runout in the easy sections(5.6) with good pro at all the cruxes. As for the gear goes a single to #2 Camalot and a set of nuts is about all you need, definitely leave the #3 & #4 that people recommend on the ground.

P.S Do not replace the loose block with a bolt..WTF are you thinking. Jul 30, 2011
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Ideally any climber with any business on the route will know immediately that that block is crap and won't hold.

Trundeling the block and replacing it with a BOLT is NOT the IDEAL solution.

Besides, I don't remember ever placing pro until at the roof. The runnout is a one move wonder 5.6. Why does that need to be protected? The route is 5.9, any 5.9 climber should be able to float a 5.6. This ain't a gym people. Jul 18, 2011
Attention on the second pitch regarding the loose block about 15-20 feet above the anchor that takes a #1-2 Camelot.

Given the runout section many climbers will be tempted to place a cam behind this 80 lb loose tooth, however over the last three climbing seasons the block has become notably less secure: it will Not protect a fall.

Ideally this block would be trundled and replaced with a bolt to make for a very safe climb.

Otherwise I believe Scimitar is the best climb on the wall. Jul 16, 2011
fivefun
 
fivefun  
 
Fun climb! I found the step around on the 3rd pitch to be the crux. Jun 27, 2011
Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
After the 5.6r towards the roof section is some loose rocks, watch out.
You can place some gear right after you start the second pitch, leaving it only about 15-20 feet of run out, Better than the 40ft. Very sustained 5.9. ****!!! Jul 6, 2010
426
426  
A great route with some fantastic moves. I almost took a serious Birdman when I grabbed a bat behind a flake near the end of the 5.5 runout, so watch yerself... Mar 10, 2007
A far better route than its relative lack-of-traffic would indicate. Have seen parties stacked up at the base of Bear's R. and The Line when Scimitar was wide-open, and it doesn't head/devolve into the traffic of formerly-bushy ledge like so many other nearby E. Wall routes. "Better route": varied, relatively continuous but mostly easy climbing; interesting gear placements/problems (but more than adequate gear); some typical LL route-finding conundrums that give you mindful pause.
One caveat: protect the .9 move on P2 (post-5.6 "run-out") carefully: a decent small cam in the crack as well as another better cam, or a nut, in the horizontal crack 3 feet left and just below this one-move crux. Sep 20, 2006