Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jay Smith, Rick Sumner
Page Views: 378 total · 3/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Starts up the face just to the left of the first pitch of East Wall. The first pitch is a retro bolt of the original route sporting reasonably spaced (new) bolts and a two bolt anchor for lowering off. The first pitch is rated 5.10b/c PG13(ish). Most party's stop at the anchors or continue up the East Wall route. If doing all three pitches, continue up to the East Wall ledge and belay there. The second pitch winds more or less strait up following dikes and the occasional gear placement. Make your anchor short of the top under a series of small roofs where gear permits. A short pitch leads to the top.

Location

Just to the left of East Wall. Look up for a bolt then work your way to it. Yes, you get some good gear before you get to the bolt.

Protection

Cams .5"-2" Nuts, 1 set.

Photos

Pitch 1 described by Chad is not Pigs on a Wing but the newer route "Wings on a Pig" 10c. That route with the topo pasted here was a very good, new route that unfortunately has been chopped by the "Strawberry Taliban).

Here is the beta for any aspiring maniacs wishing to tick the Pigs

The route is X. Despite the Chuck's claims to be "R"

"real" Pigs On The Wing. Pitch 1:
Is dirty and uninspiring until the last 25 feet of steep beautiful, unprotected headwall with the final move being 10a, reachy and insecure. A fall here with 120 feet of rope out would be 60+ feet with dikes to hit. Probably non fatal (R/X?)

Pitch 2: I led and did a short 50 foot pitch to allow a belay out of the corner and for Chuck to lead to the top in one. It was 5.9 with a handicap bump of 2 letter grades for my impressive "dos zapatos izquierdos" feat of feet

Pitch 2.5/3
The first gear is 35 feet out and to get there requires (in our case) a 5.9 traversing move without hands on a pretty small dike. A fall from here is certain to crash onto big mean rocks and at least a maiming before bouncing and falling another 40' ("R/X" if less than 5 bones broken. "X" for drooling head injury or death which is quite possible)
The next 100 feet was quality and PG/R.
Then the traverse left for 12 feet on a sketchy nut and pull the roof 10a R.

The last 50 feet once above the roof starts easy and then ends up on horrible low angle blankish and filthy dirty overlapping small roofs with little gear. The last roof is 10 feet above a low ball with 140 feet of rope out on insecure moss/lichen covered slab roofs. Awful. A skate off the finishing moves (which would be simple to accomplish) would be a 40 feet IF the lowball slider nut held and 60+ if not. ("R/X" depending on how many dikes one hit on the great tumbling fall).

Enjoy the trip and don't forget to write Jan 10, 2018