Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Norm Booth and Jay Smith, 1979.
Page Views: 5,621 total · 38/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

1) Start left of the arching corner left of "Fantasia". Climb past Three bolts to a belay.
2) Climb up to a bolt and some weird mantle moves (5.9). Climb past a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor.
3) Climb up to a crack/corner with a pin, continue up to a belay.
4) Wander to the top.

I haven't done this route in over twenty years. The pins may be gone. Use your best judgement.

Protection

Pro to 2 in.

Photos

426
426  
Another superb face climb, but don't get on it until you are tuned into leap runouts.

A bit harder than it's neighboring route. Do Fantasia first, if you are feeling froggy then try this one. Mar 6, 2007
Brian Chandler
Tahoe Paradise, CA
Brian Chandler   Tahoe Paradise, CA
It has been many, many years since I've climbed this route but, I remember it being a bold climb. Sep 11, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Bolts replaced by Mucci September 2009:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Sep 24, 2009
Blitzo
  5.9
Blitzo  
  5.9
Another classic! Falling would not be in your best interest. Aug 24, 2010
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
 
Better than Fantasia IMO. It's like Fantasia, accept without all that boring dike hikeing. Yeah, it's a dike hike too, but you'll be far form bored on this one. Jul 18, 2011
I did this route back in 89. Is that dicey flake past the 2nd (?) bolt still there? I remember tossing a TCU behind it and just praying the whole thing didn't fall off when I mantled on it :). It's nice to see that the bolts have been changed out. Great lead, great route.

K. Mar 3, 2012
Nate varela
gardnerville, nevada
Nate varela   gardnerville, nevada
this route is 5.9 R!!! Apr 14, 2012
Kevin Hecka
Speed of Light
Kevin Hecka   Speed of Light
I haven't done this route since 94 or so but it was by far one of the most memorable routes in my climbing history. It's all there, just keep your head on! :)

K. Nov 21, 2012
K. Boyko
Las Cruces
  5.9 X
K. Boyko   Las Cruces
  5.9 X
Fun route. But heads up: Defiantly R if not X in some sections. Not for the 5.9 (or maybe even 5.10) climber.

Difficult route finding as you see no bolts/pins, and you could go anywhere on the sills. Good luck, please don't fall! May 9, 2014