Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Miller, Greg Dexter, Jay Smaith, Karl Jenkewitz
Page Views: 439 total · 40/month
Shared By: Aidan Maguire on Jan 10, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

In my opinion this is probably the best obscure route you haven't done at the Leap. Though a combination of routes it follows the obvious line of weakness through the east wall

P1 Start up East wall to the ledge (5.6)
P2 Start up the obvious big and beautiful right facing corner that is immediately above you. Follow and stay in the corner as it sweeps across and transitions from a dihedral to a big roof (This large roof extends most of the way to The Line and is the continuation of Fireworks). This is 5.9/10a. The large roof above was then breached by the easiest line that breaks the roof (you are at this point on Fireworks). At this point the roof is stepped and smaller but still substantial. There is a pin and I found a bomber (truly!) #00 tcu. The roof is pretty easy (5.8?) but again a bit sporty. Set up a steep belay about 15 feet above the roof. Using 3 med/lg cams to Camalot 3 and lg nut. Last pitch goes up a nice shallow dihedral and then another large roof with a pin. This is a little less secure but not as big feeling. After this the route becomes more slabby but over several 2 foot roofs with creative gear and one pin high up. Again a little run out but pretty solid and not harder than 5.9. It looks hard to decide which way to go up. I chose just left of 12 O’clock and ran smack into the pin. The last 20 feet gets pretty grubby and needed a little cleaning for a mantle move and small cam placement. Top out about 80 left of the Line. Rack is standard up to Camalot 3 (placed a 4 but not really needed). Doubles on ½ to perhaps 2 ½ inch, and don’t forget the #00! We climbed on doubles which were nice to have and looked cool but not a necessity. I would bring plenty of full length runners though. Probably a little less heady than Fantasia and a little easier. Most excellent, and really the natural line up that section of the East wall. Solid 3 out of 4 star and would become 4 star with clean up.

Location

Same start as East Wall route

Protection

Standard rack to Camalot 3. Doubles from 1/2 to 2 1/2 with plenty of full length runners

Photos

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