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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Flying Circus/ Fireworks combo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Miller, Greg Dexter, Jay Smaith, Karl Jenkewitz
Page Views: 283 total · 39/month
Shared By: Aidan Maguire on Jan 10, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

In my opinion this is probably the best obscure route you haven't done at the Leap. Though a combination of routes it follows the obvious line of weakness through the east wall

P1 Start up East wall to the ledge (5.6)
P2 Start up the obvious big and beautiful right facing corner that is immediately above you. Follow and stay in the corner as it sweeps across and transitions from a dihedral to a big roof (This large roof extends most of the way to The Line and is the continuation of Fireworks). This is 5.9/10a. The large roof above was then breached by the easiest line that breaks the roof (you are at this point on Fireworks). At this point the roof is stepped and smaller but still substantial. There is a pin and I found a bomber (truly!) #00 tcu. The roof is pretty easy (5.8?) but again a bit sporty. Set up a steep belay about 15 feet above the roof. Using 3 med/lg cams to Camalot 3 and lg nut. Last pitch goes up a nice shallow dihedral and then another large roof with a pin. This is a little less secure but not as big feeling. After this the route becomes more slabby but over several 2 foot roofs with creative gear and one pin high up. Again a little run out but pretty solid and not harder than 5.9. It looks hard to decide which way to go up. I chose just left of 12 O’clock and ran smack into the pin. The last 20 feet gets pretty grubby and needed a little cleaning for a mantle move and small cam placement. Top out about 80 left of the Line. Rack is standard up to Camalot 3 (placed a 4 but not really needed). Doubles on ½ to perhaps 2 ½ inch, and don’t forget the #00! We climbed on doubles which were nice to have and looked cool but not a necessity. I would bring plenty of full length runners though. Probably a little less heady than Fantasia and a little easier. Most excellent, and really the natural line up that section of the East wall. Solid 3 out of 4 star and would become 4 star with clean up.

Location

Same start as East Wall route

Protection

Standard rack to Camalot 3. Doubles from 1/2 to 2 1/2 with plenty of full length runners

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