Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Bowlin, John Hoffman, Victor Marcus, Jim Orey (1977)
Page Views: 1,561 total · 31/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Nov 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Start up a heavily featured wall of crisscrossing dikes. A few moves of 5.8 will lead to a short right facing crack that can be seen from the ground. Two bolt anchor is on top.

Pitch 2 starts up more dikes and wonders to a small ledge with a pin. From here, wonder up (5.9) and slightly left heading for a long crack that starts as a thin seam (.10a). Once you make it to the seam, it will open up to a good crack above. Make an anchor where you can here.

Pitch 3 can be done two ways, Direct, or Indirect. The indirect way climbs up to a small corner/bulge (.10c) with good gear to the large roofs above. From here, traverse out right under the first roof system all the way to the ledge of Psychedelic Tree and finish on that route.

The Direct finish climbs past the corner/bulge to the roofs. At the roofs, find a place to mantle the first one. Above the first roof, traverse left about 8ft to an obvious right facing corner. Climb this corner to just under the giant roofs above. It is best to make an anchor here as rope drag will be near impossible to avoid for the climbing above.

Pitch 4, Continue up out the overhanging roofs on jugs to a low angle ledge. It's not over yet! Climbing over the last bit of roof to the top is difficult (5.11) and not well, if at all protected. There is no easy way.


Right of Labor of love.


Cams to 2" especially small. Nuts, 1 set.


Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
The direct finish to this route is definitely the better way to go.
When making the mantle over the first big roof, I used a #6 Lost Arrow Piton dropped into a downward slopeing crack waist height at the mantle. Dropping the piton in this crack was good enough, no need to pound it in unless you wanted to fix it. There is a hidden round hole at the mantle, you have to feel for it above.

After the mantle, the gear you were spying from below is no good (flaring), however there is a good green Alien placement just above. Make a traverse into the corner to the left which is a bit crispy. There is a loose block in the corner which you have to try hard not to grab. It is avoidable though. Please have your second trundle it if you have the chance. At the end of this corner, there is a nice horizontal crack under the roof (though cramped) to build an anchor.

The roofs above are easy until you reach the large ledge. I found micro gear off to the left, but the climbing above was too hard (.11+/.12a). The easier way (5.11a/b) was off to the right side about 15ft from the gear. It's a one move mantle I really didn't want to fall from. The top is less than 10ft above.

This is by far one of the best routes on East Wall. Face, jugs, slabs, edging, cracks, thin techy climbing and gear, mantles, overhanging jugs, roofs etc... The only thing it's missing is an offwidth.

This route used to have several bolts, 4 I believe which protected some of the more serious climbing on the route. They were removed under questionable reasoning and circumstances. It's a shame because with the bolts the route is fairly well protected though still R rated and would/could be climbed by a good number of people. Without the bolts, it's an unclimbed relic fit for only the youngest and most ignorant. Nov 30, 2014
Pitch 1 was very run out but easy and solid. I wished it was well bolted because in it's own right it would provide a very nice route for the many 5.9 climbers. Unfortunately that's all about local politics and history. Pitch 2 resulted, after considerable effort and attempts, in a retreat. The final roofs are spectacular but above the mantle that Chad refers to I ended up looking at a committing 12 feet of roofs with no clear gear and backing off looking very difficult combined with what would have been a big and nasty fall. I decided that Edwin Drummond was either a liar (unlikely) are a very hard climber (undoubtedly). Beside Chad, and brave Sir Edwin, I don't now anyone who has done it Jan 10, 2018