Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: John Bowlin, John Hoffman, Victor Marcus, Jim Orey (1977)
Page Views: 2,475 total · 32/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Nov 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Start up a heavily featured wall of crisscrossing dikes. A few moves of 5.8 will lead to a short right facing crack that can be seen from the ground. Two bolt anchor is on top.

Pitch 2 starts up more dikes and wonders to a small ledge with a pin. From here, wonder up (5.9) and slightly left heading for a long crack that starts as a thin seam (.10a). Once you make it to the seam, it will open up to a good crack above. Make an anchor where you can here.

Pitch 3 can be done two ways, Direct, or Indirect. The indirect way climbs up to a small corner/bulge (.10c) with good gear to the large roofs above. From here, traverse out right under the first roof system all the way to the ledge of Psychedelic Tree and finish on that route.

The Direct finish climbs past the corner/bulge to the roofs. At the roofs, find a place to mantle the first one. Above the first roof, traverse left about 8ft to an obvious right facing corner. Climb this corner to just under the giant roofs above. It is best to make an anchor here as rope drag will be near impossible to avoid for the climbing above.

Pitch 4, Continue up out the overhanging roofs on jugs to a low angle ledge. It's not over yet! Climbing over the last bit of roof to the top is difficult (5.11) and not well, if at all protected. There is no easy way.

Location

Right of Labor of love.

Protection

Cams to 2" especially small. Nuts, 1 set.

Photos