Elevation: 6,631 ft
GPS: 38.799, -120.135 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 289,024 total · 8,005/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Jun 27, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap Details

Description

The main formation at the Leap is traditionally divided into these walls, from right/west/closest to the campground, to left/east/furthest:West Wall, Main Wall, Central Wall, and East Wall.

Getting There

From the Pony Express signed trailhead at the parking lot, follow the wide, rocky trail uphill. See each wall or route for specific directions to the huge Lovers Leap.

Once at the top of a route, walk or scramble away from the cliff until you see a well used climber's trail. Follow it left (east) until it winds around and rejoins the Pony Express Trail that connects to the campground and parking lot. 

92 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Formation Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 147
East Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 998
Corrugation Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 733
Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 558
Haystack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 158
Preparation H
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 304
East Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 69
Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 567
The Line
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 158
Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 338
Traveler Buttress
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 152
Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 365
Hospital Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 113
Tombstone Terror
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
Power Lust
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 75
Boot Hill
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Wall E Wall
 147
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Corrugation Corner Main Wall
 998
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bear's Reach E Wall
 733
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Haystack E Wall
 558
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Preparation H E Wall
 158
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
East Crack E Wall
 304
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fantasia E Wall
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
The Line E Wall
 567
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Scimitar E Wall
 158
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Traveler Buttress Main Wall
 338
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Psychedelic Tree E Wall
 152
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hospital Corner W Wall
 365
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tombstone Terror Main Wall
 113
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Power Lust Main Wall
 87
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Boot Hill Main Wall
 75
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Formation »

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