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Elevation: 6,618 ft 2,017 m
GPS: 38.79918, -120.1354
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 395,831 total · 5,507/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Jun 27, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The main formation at the Leap is traditionally divided into these walls, from right/west/closest to the campground, to left/east/furthest:West Wall, Main Wall, Central Wall, and East Wall.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Pony Express signed trailhead at the parking lot, follow the wide, rocky trail uphill. See each wall or route for specific directions to the huge Lovers Leap.

Once at the top of a route, walk or scramble away from the cliff until you see a well used climber's trail. Follow it left (east) until it winds around and rejoins the Pony Express Trail that connects to the campground and parking lot. 

93 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Formation Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 861
Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1,234
Corrugation Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 654
Haystack
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 84
Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 666
The Line
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 185
Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 391
Traveler Buttress
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 187
Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 434
Hospital Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Eeyore's Enigma
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 126
Tombstone Terror
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 75
East Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 85
Boot Hill
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 16
Freak Show
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Silly Willy Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bear's Reach E Wall
 861
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Corrugation Corner Main Wall
 1,234
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Haystack E Wall
 654
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fantasia E Wall
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
The Line E Wall
 666
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Scimitar E Wall
 185
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Traveler Buttress Main Wall
 391
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Psychedelic Tree E Wall
 187
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hospital Corner W Wall
 434
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Eeyore's Enigma Main Wall
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Tombstone Terror Main Wall
 126
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
East Corner E Wall
 75
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Boot Hill Main Wall
 85
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Freak Show Main Wall
 16
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Silly Willy Crack Main Wall
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Main Formation »

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