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Areas in Main Formation

Central Wall 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
East Wall 33 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 33
Main Wall 22 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
West Wall 20 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap Details

Description

The main formation at the Leap is traditionally divided into these walls, from right/west/closest to the campground, to left/east/furthest:West Wall, Main Wall, Central Wall, and East Wall.

Getting There

From the Pony Express signed trailhead at the parking lot, follow the wide, rocky trail uphill. See each wall or route for specific directions to the huge Lovers Leap.

Once at the top of a route, walk or scramble away from the cliff until you see a well used climber's trail. Follow it left (east) until it winds around and rejoins the Pony Express Trail that connects to the campground and parking lot. 

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 110
East Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 710
Corrugation Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 577
Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 435
Haystack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
Preparation H
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 232
East Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 52
Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 457
The Line
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 122
Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 265
Traveler Buttress
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 102
Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 277
Hospital Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 89
Tombstone Terror
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Power Lust
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 50
Boot Hill
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Wall E Wall
 110
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Corrugation Corner Main Wall
 710
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bear's Reach E Wall
 577
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Haystack E Wall
 435
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Preparation H E Wall
 117
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
East Crack E Wall
 232
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fantasia E Wall
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
The Line E Wall
 457
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Scimitar E Wall
 122
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Traveler Buttress Main Wall
 265
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Psychedelic Tree E Wall
 102
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hospital Corner W Wall
 277
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tombstone Terror Main Wall
 89
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Power Lust Main Wall
 71
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Boot Hill Main Wall
 50
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Formation »

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