Explore this area in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,618 ft 2,017 m
GPS: 38.79918, -120.1354
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 399,628 total · 4,032/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Jun 27, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski
Page Updates (admin only)
Warning Access Issue: 2026 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The main formation at the Leap is traditionally divided into these walls, from right/west/closest to the campground, to left/east/furthest:West Wall, Main Wall, Central Wall, and East Wall.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Pony Express signed trailhead at the parking lot, follow the wide, rocky trail uphill. See each wall or route for specific directions to the huge Lovers Leap.

Once at the top of a route, walk or scramble away from the cliff until you see a well used climber's trail. Follow it left (east) until it winds around and rejoins the Pony Express Trail that connects to the campground and parking lot. 

100 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Formation Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Main Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1,039
● Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1,519
● Corrugation Corner
Trad 3 pitches
Main Wall > Main Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 750
● Haystack
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 105
● Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 768
● The Line
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 222
● Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 447
● Traveler Buttress
Trad 4 pitches
Main Wall > Main Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 251
● Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 524
● Hospital Corner
Trad 2 pitches
W Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 38
● Eeyore's Enigma
Trad 4 pitches
Main Wall > Main Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 151
● Tombstone Terror
Trad
Main Wall > Tombstone Buttress
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 123
● Power Lust
Sport
Main Wall > Main Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 97
● East Corner
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 104
● Boot Hill
Sport
Main Wall > Tombstone Buttress
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 23
● Freak Show
Trad
Main Wall > Main Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Bear's Reach E Wall
 1,039
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Corrugation Corner Main Wall > Main Wall
 1,519
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Haystack E Wall
 750
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
● Fantasia E Wall
 105
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
● The Line E Wall
 768
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Scimitar E Wall
 222
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
● Traveler Buttress Main Wall > Main Wall
 447
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Psychedelic Tree E Wall
 251
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Hospital Corner W Wall
 524
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Eeyore's Enigma Main Wall > Main Wall
 38
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Tombstone Terror Main Wall > Tombstone Buttress
 151
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Power Lust Main Wall > Main Wall
 123
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● East Corner E Wall
 97
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Boot Hill Main Wall > Tombstone Buttress
 104
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Freak Show Main Wall > Main Wall
 23
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Main Formation »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
 Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

Overview of Bear's Reach showing route, belay stations, and multiple parties climbing
Overview of Bear's Reach showing route, belay s…
 8

0 Comments