Elevation: 6,631 ft
GPS: 38.799, -120.135 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 61,879 total · 6,860/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Jun 27, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap Details

Description

The main formation at the Leap is traditionally divided into these walls, from right/west/closest to the campground, to left/east/furthest:West Wall, Main Wall, Central Wall, and East Wall.

Getting There

From the Pony Express signed trailhead at the parking lot, follow the wide, rocky trail uphill. See each wall or route for specific directions to the huge Lovers Leap.

Once at the top of a route, walk or scramble away from the cliff until you see a well used climber's trail. Follow it left (east) until it winds around and rejoins the Pony Express Trail that connects to the campground and parking lot. 

88 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Formation Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 111
East Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 740
Corrugation Corner
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 597
Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 448
Haystack
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 119
Preparation H
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 238
East Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 53
Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 469
The Line
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 124
Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 273
Traveler Buttress
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 107
Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 285
Hospital Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 90
Tombstone Terror
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 71
Power Lust
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 53
Boot Hill
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Wall E Wall
 111
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Corrugation Corner Main Wall
 740
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bear's Reach E Wall
 597
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Haystack E Wall
 448
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Preparation H E Wall
 119
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
East Crack E Wall
 238
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Fantasia E Wall
 53
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
The Line E Wall
 469
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Scimitar E Wall
 124
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
Traveler Buttress Main Wall
 273
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Psychedelic Tree E Wall
 107
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hospital Corner W Wall
 285
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tombstone Terror Main Wall
 90
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Power Lust Main Wall
 71
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Boot Hill Main Wall
 53
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Formation »

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