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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ken Edsburg, TM Herbert, Jerry Sublette, 1965
Page Views: 17,065 total, 120/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The crux is getting on the route in the summer. There's always a line so come early....real early. This route is a good entry level 5.8. Most of the pitches check in around 5.5 - 5.6. Midway up the second pitch is where you'll find the crux bulge. Its well protectable and only one short 5.8 move over it. The route is also really easy to follow. This is the best route to score booty gear on after a summer rain storm or early on Sunday mornings:)

Location

Right off the approach trail to East Wall, on your right. No fixed protection at belays. Walk down the obvious decent trail to get down.

Protection

Cams, .5" - 2" Nuts, 1 set.
Jon Lee
 
Jon Lee  
 
Great route! Possible to do in 3 pitches with a 60m from 10' above the p2 roof, allowing you to keep an eye on your follower. P3 takes ALL of the 60 though. Oct 15, 2017
Hi, Left a bunch of gear on first belay on 7/16/2017 (had to rap down from top of P1). If anyone retrieved it, please PM me. Thanks Jul 18, 2017
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
 
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
 
Fun route, 3 pitches works out perfectly. Jul 9, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
TM Herbert: "Back in the Day when Men were Men and we nailed 5.8..." Feb 24, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
Mostly really fun 5.6, with a cool 5.8 crux. I dragged a #4 camalot up but didn't need it.

As for the second pitch top belay... the party above us belayed among the blocks, and we belayed on the small stance about 20' down and right. Worked out perfectly. Last pitch took nearly all of a 60m rope. Oct 11, 2015
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.8
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.8
Very uncomfortable belay below P3 if there is more than one party there. Traffic jams really mess this route up bad due to the lack of available belays for numerous parties up top. Mar 11, 2015
Christian Cota
Arcata, CA
 
Christian Cota   Arcata, CA
 
preparation h is a much better first pitch to this stellar route! Jun 7, 2014
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8+
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.8+
I honestly liked East crack more. That's all I remember. Jul 16, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Exciting position on the crux move round the roof probably makes it seem harder than it actually is. UK grade VS+ 4c. Sep 14, 2012
A 0.5 (purple) C4 Camalot protects the roof well, placed about 1 foot in from the bucket, under the roof. Sep 9, 2012
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.8
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.8
This is a good climb, done it several times, 3.5 stars with Prep H as the first pitch, 3 stars otherwise. There are two 5.8 moves on pitch two, the bulge 20ish' off the belay (I've had a partner whip on this section) and the roof. Good lead as you are working through the grades, and good repeat even years later. Jun 20, 2012
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.8
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.8
Great route, definitely only 3 pitches. The roof is simply classic and protects very well. Nov 22, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.8
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.8
I'd have to respectfully disagree with Blitzo on this one. I think Haystack is one of the better routes at the Leap. Definitely better than the overly hyped Corrugation Corner. In fact, I like it better than Bear's Reach as well (too much suspect rock on BR). To each his own though. Aug 24, 2010
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Good, but I wouldn't call it classic. Aug 24, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Make sure to place a passive piece at the lip of the roof or a small cam in a horizontal out right above the roof to keep your rope from jamming in the crack at the lip.

Also if your second is likely to fall or have trouble clearing the lip, belay just above. Beware the sharp dike that forms the lip of the roof, core shot/cut rope potential. Feb 8, 2010
GMBurns
 
GMBurns  
 
I loved this route from bottom to top. The first pitch offers fun climbing either in the corner on the left or the face to the right. Naturally, the second pitch roof is of Gunks quality, and is the crux. Even the third pitch offers some exciting moves. A must do if you're heading to the Leap. Jul 21, 2008
426
426  
I always found the moves about 40' below the roof to feel "cruxy". Even saw someone whip there...

These moves are right off the first belay ledge; do not hesitate to protect well right there... Mar 8, 2007