Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ken Edsburg, TM Herbert, Jerry Sublette, 1965
Page Views: 19,531 total · 124/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The crux is getting on the route in the summer. There's always a line so come early....real early. This route is a good entry level 5.8. Most of the pitches check in around 5.5 - 5.6. Midway up the second pitch is where you'll find the crux bulge. Its well protectable and only one short 5.8 move over it. The route is also really easy to follow. This is the best route to score booty gear on after a summer rain storm or early on Sunday mornings:)


Right off the approach trail to East Wall, on your right. No fixed protection at belays. Walk down the obvious decent trail to get down.


Cams, .5" - 2" Nuts, 1 set.
I always found the moves about 40' below the roof to feel "cruxy". Even saw someone whip there...

These moves are right off the first belay ledge; do not hesitate to protect well right there... Mar 8, 2007
I loved this route from bottom to top. The first pitch offers fun climbing either in the corner on the left or the face to the right. Naturally, the second pitch roof is of Gunks quality, and is the crux. Even the third pitch offers some exciting moves. A must do if you're heading to the Leap. Jul 21, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Make sure to place a passive piece at the lip of the roof or a small cam in a horizontal out right above the roof to keep your rope from jamming in the crack at the lip.

Also if your second is likely to fall or have trouble clearing the lip, belay just above. Beware the sharp dike that forms the lip of the roof, core shot/cut rope potential. Feb 8, 2010
Good, but I wouldn't call it classic. Aug 24, 2010
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
I'd have to respectfully disagree with Blitzo on this one. I think Haystack is one of the better routes at the Leap. Definitely better than the overly hyped Corrugation Corner. In fact, I like it better than Bear's Reach as well (too much suspect rock on BR). To each his own though. Aug 24, 2010
Colin Brochard
Colin Brochard   Austin
Great route, definitely only 3 pitches. The roof is simply classic and protects very well. Nov 22, 2010
Rocklin, Ca
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
This is a good climb, done it several times, 3.5 stars with Prep H as the first pitch, 3 stars otherwise. There are two 5.8 moves on pitch two, the bulge 20ish' off the belay (I've had a partner whip on this section) and the roof. Good lead as you are working through the grades, and good repeat even years later. Jun 20, 2012
A 0.5 (purple) C4 Camalot protects the roof well, placed about 1 foot in from the bucket, under the roof. Sep 9, 2012
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Exciting position on the crux move round the roof probably makes it seem harder than it actually is. UK grade VS+ 4c. Sep 14, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
I honestly liked East crack more. That's all I remember. Jul 16, 2013
Christian Cota
Arcata, CA
Christian Cota   Arcata, CA
preparation h is a much better first pitch to this stellar route! Jun 7, 2014
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Very uncomfortable belay below P3 if there is more than one party there. Traffic jams really mess this route up bad due to the lack of available belays for numerous parties up top. Mar 11, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Mostly really fun 5.6, with a cool 5.8 crux. I dragged a #4 camalot up but didn't need it.

As for the second pitch top belay... the party above us belayed among the blocks, and we belayed on the small stance about 20' down and right. Worked out perfectly. Last pitch took nearly all of a 60m rope. Oct 11, 2015
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
TM Herbert: "Back in the Day when Men were Men and we nailed 5.8..." Feb 24, 2017
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
Fun route, 3 pitches works out perfectly. Jul 9, 2017
Jon Lee
San Francisco, CA
Jon Lee   San Francisco, CA
Great route! Possible to do in 3 pitches with a 60m from 10' above the p2 roof, allowing you to keep an eye on your follower. P3 takes ALL of the 60 though. Oct 15, 2017
Rew Exo
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Rew Exo   Mammoth Lakes, CA
I did East crack right after and enjoyed it more than Haystack. Jul 16, 2018
Martin Kunz
Martin Kunz  
I found the 5.8 bulge at the beginning of the 2nd pitch trickier than the roof. Protected the roof with an orange Metolius but the purple BD 0.5" would have been better. Not sure why it says 4 pitches. It is best done in 3 pitches. Sep 18, 2018