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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Higgins, Ben Borson (1968)
Page Views: 302 total, 8/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Dec 1, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The Deviate climbs an inconspicuous section of the east wall that starts on gigantic dikes that crisscross the wall. Eventually (about 40ft up) you'll run into the first gear on the route which is behind a narrow ledge that is hard to spot from the ground. Continue heading more or less strait up beautiful solid granite with sporadic opportunities for gear. Head for a white patch of granite with a short vertical crack running through it about 100+ft up the wall. You will find good gear and a great spot to stop and build a belay.

Pitch 2 climbs up the vertical crack onto more dikes with better opportunities for gear along the way. Trend right after about 50ft of climbing shooting to meet up with the large belay ledge that is also the top of the first pitch of Psychedelic Tree.

Climb the last pitch of Psychedelic Tree to the top.

There is also a third pitch that has been done which leads to the upper ledge of Psychedelic Tree, topping out on it's very left side but is of low quality and high commitment. It is not recommended to the civilized climber, as doing so may result in surfing a gigantic slab, or rolling precariously without much control, having little trust in (while descending rapidly past) ones scarcely allotted protections.
However, if you must; From the top of the first pitch, climb up as you would for the normal second pitch, but do not veer to the right heading toward the big ledge of Psychedelic Tree. Continue strait up through slabs and bulges keeping a keen eye for any potential gear. You will not find much. Continue up through some very expansive (thin) detached plates. Beyond these plates is a section of difficult slab which ends on a narrow sloping ledge. No gear will be found here, however it is only one short (5.10+) mantle before 5.10 slabs will deliver you to the big ledge and trees which give name to the route Psychedelic Tree. It is a 170ft pitch.

Location

The Deviate climbs up the right side of a gigantic white streak that splits the East Wall, located 30 or so feet left of Psychedelic Tree.

Protection

Cams, single to 3" Nuts, 1 set.

Photos

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