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The Deviate

5.9 R, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Tom Higgins, Ben Borson (1968)
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Main Formation > E Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description

The Deviate climbs an inconspicuous section of the east wall that starts on gigantic dikes that crisscross the wall. Eventually (about 40ft up) you'll run into the first gear on the route which is behind a narrow ledge that is hard to spot from the ground. Continue heading more or less strait up beautiful solid granite with sporadic opportunities for gear. Head for a white patch of granite with a short vertical crack running through it about 100+ft up the wall. You will find good gear and a great spot to stop and build a belay.

Pitch 2 climbs up the vertical crack onto more dikes with better opportunities for gear along the way. Trend right after about 50ft of climbing shooting to meet up with the large belay ledge that is also the top of the first pitch of Psychedelic Tree.

Climb the last pitch of Psychedelic Tree to the top.

There is also a third pitch that has been done which leads to the upper ledge of Psychedelic Tree, topping out on it's very left side but is of low quality and high commitment. It is not recommended to the civilized climber, as doing so may result in surfing a gigantic slab, or rolling precariously without much control, having little trust in (while descending rapidly past) ones scarcely allotted protections.
However, if you must; From the top of the first pitch, climb up as you would for the normal second pitch, but do not veer to the right heading toward the big ledge of Psychedelic Tree. Continue strait up through slabs and bulges keeping a keen eye for any potential gear. You will not find much. Continue up through some very expansive (thin) detached plates. Beyond these plates is a section of difficult slab which ends on a narrow sloping ledge. No gear will be found here, however it is only one short (5.10+) mantle before 5.10 slabs will deliver you to the big ledge and trees which give name to the route Psychedelic Tree. It is a 170ft pitch.

Location

The Deviate climbs up the right side of a gigantic white streak that splits the East Wall, located 30 or so feet left of Psychedelic Tree.

Protection

Cams, single to 3" Nuts, 1 set.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pulling the final mantle on the "not recommended" direct finish to The Deviate.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the final mantle on the "not recommended" direct finish to The Deviate.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Morris
Placerville CA
[Hide Comment] My roommate and I climbed The Deviate once, and only once, in 1979. When you speak of the third pitch, "There is also a third pitch that has been done which leads to the upper ledge of Psychedelic Tree." And, "It is not recommended to the civilized climber." Truer words have never been spoken." I led the third pitch and saw no discernible route, so I kept going (seemed like a good idea at the time!). Running out of rope, and the last piece of pro was 30ft below, I found a dike about 3 inches wide to stand on, feet splayed outward, thank God for 20 year old ankles. I manage to find a spot for a reasonable belay anchor. I untied myself to belay, and dropped the rope. it fell 30 feet down to the last piece of pro and stuck! I yelled to my roomy over the bulge I had climbed not to pull on the rope. I stood there wanting to cry and thinking of the helicopter rescue that would be needed. After a couple of minutes I got my S#@! together, took all the pro and tied the leads together, lowered down to the rope, tied off and climbed back to my belay spot. We finished the climb without further incident (that was way more than enough excitement for the day!)

Moral of the story: DON'T BOTHER WITH THE ALTERNATE THIRD PITCH, IT'S NOT FUN TO SAY THE LEAST!

BILL Aug 29, 2021