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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins, Ken Wilson 1973
Page Views: 8,237 total, 47/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 29, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

To find this climb, look for a very featured slab below a very prominent crescent arch crack that forms a roof. Begin climbing up a highly featured (dikes) face below the arch to the roof, about 50ft of unprotected 5.5

Pitch #1:

From the start of the route, head up over this roof, work up to another small roof traversing left a bit and then up through easy runnout face to the first bolted anchor, about 140 feet up.

Pitch #2:

This shorter pitch is probably the simplest and best protected pitch of the route. From the first belay station, continue up the face to a horizontal cracksystem that leads up and slightly right to the second bolted belay station.

Pitch #3:

This long pitch will get you to the top of the rock. Climb up and left to a mantle with poor to no protection, 5.9. Continue strait up on easier face to a short slabby area. Make some runnout slabby moves through a blank section and climb up into the roofs above. There are many ways to go up high with none much better than the other. Just go more or less strait up getting pro where you can.

Protection

Cams, doubles to 2". Bring many long slings, you will need them on almost every placement.
Michael Dom
  5.9 R
Michael Dom  
  5.9 R
What an adventure! Do yourself a favor and climb this. You only need a single set of cams to 2. It isn't like you will place much gear on this route. I think I placed 12 pieces for the entire route. Sep 16, 2016
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Climbed this route 9/24/13. After doing most of the easier classics at the Leap, finally got around to this one and it didn't disappoint! As for Pitch 3, the piton shown above the belay is gone and this section appears quite unprotected. I climbed up and down it a bit, finally coming back to the belay and heading over to the right side 5.10a/b variation. For this there is an obvious rusty ring piton at 3 o clock from the belay, then head straight up on slab, passing a small roof to the next gear ~30 ft above the piton. Its all there, but very exciting. I will have to go back and send the original 5.8 lieback sans piton now that I have done this. Nov 16, 2013
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
I did this,finally,about '95, with my wife.A lot of folks here may be unaware that Fantasia is the route that Royal Robbins writes about in the last chapter of Advanced Rockcraft.All the time on that first pitch,the memory of the terror he described in finessing that slab section was playing in my memory.Many years earlier,I did Roofer Madness with none other than John Rosholt.I think his main motive was because of the name,but for me, as a CO climber,that was a stellar route. Feb 9, 2012
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
Michael: How can I improve this beta? I assume you're thinking my description of the first pitch is a little too vague, is this correct? Aug 19, 2011
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
The route description on this page strikes me as next to useless, although maybe any would be. From the corner at the end of the 5.6R dike climb, you do a wild hand traverse to the left. After that, I'm not sure because I drifted too far to the left and wound up at the bolted belay for Fear No Evil (there's a bolt about 30 above). Did the second pitch of Fear, which was great. The last not so great, so I ended up escaping to the corner system to the left. Jul 11, 2011
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
A great route for sure, but not the best by a long shot. The leap has so many obscure, less traveled, great lines it makes ones head spin. Jun 18, 2011
broppler
Oakland
 
broppler   Oakland
 
Im with Bob. The very best route at the leap. Jun 7, 2011
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I'll go with the 5.8 rating. It's more mental than hard. Aug 24, 2010
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.9 R
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.9 R
I still think this route is 5.9. Take a couple of 1/2" webbing slings, esp for the Three Grey Knobs. They probably won't hold anything but they'll give you an ephemeral feeling that you're ok. I led all this route twice in the 80s and think it is the best route at the Leap, for aesthetics, boldness, and having to really commit yourself fully: all those great values of 60s/70s rock climbing. One of the great, great routes, but need to have serious cool head and experience or you'll get hurt. Feb 6, 2009
426
 
426  
 
This climb used to be 5.8 in the old guide. Also, we used tied off knobs on the crux...

Fantastic route if you are into "the journey"... Mar 6, 2007