Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins, Ken Wilson 1973
Page Views: 9,005 total · 47/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 29, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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To find this climb, look for a very featured slab below a very prominent crescent arch crack that forms a roof. Begin climbing up a highly featured (dikes) face below the arch to the roof, about 50ft of unprotected 5.5

Pitch #1:

From the start of the route, head up over this roof, work up to another small roof traversing left a bit and then up through easy runnout face to the first bolted anchor, about 140 feet up.

Pitch #2:

This shorter pitch is probably the simplest and best protected pitch of the route. From the first belay station, continue up the face to a horizontal cracksystem that leads up and slightly right to the second bolted belay station.

Pitch #3:

This long pitch will get you to the top of the rock. Climb up and left to a mantle with poor to no protection, 5.9. Continue strait up on easier face to a short slabby area. Make some runnout slabby moves through a blank section and climb up into the roofs above. There are many ways to go up high with none much better than the other. Just go more or less strait up getting pro where you can.


Cams, doubles to 2". Bring many long slings, you will need them on almost every placement.
This climb used to be 5.8 in the old guide. Also, we used tied off knobs on the crux...

Fantastic route if you are into "the journey"... Mar 6, 2007
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.9 R
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.9 R
I still think this route is 5.9. Take a couple of 1/2" webbing slings, esp for the Three Grey Knobs. They probably won't hold anything but they'll give you an ephemeral feeling that you're ok. I led all this route twice in the 80s and think it is the best route at the Leap, for aesthetics, boldness, and having to really commit yourself fully: all those great values of 60s/70s rock climbing. One of the great, great routes, but need to have serious cool head and experience or you'll get hurt. Feb 6, 2009
I'll go with the 5.8 rating. It's more mental than hard. Aug 24, 2010
broppler   Oakland
Im with Bob. The very best route at the leap. Jun 7, 2011
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
A great route for sure, but not the best by a long shot. The leap has so many obscure, less traveled, great lines it makes ones head spin. Jun 18, 2011
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
The route description on this page strikes me as next to useless, although maybe any would be. From the corner at the end of the 5.6R dike climb, you do a wild hand traverse to the left. After that, I'm not sure because I drifted too far to the left and wound up at the bolted belay for Fear No Evil (there's a bolt about 30 above). Did the second pitch of Fear, which was great. The last not so great, so I ended up escaping to the corner system to the left. Jul 11, 2011
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Michael: How can I improve this beta? I assume you're thinking my description of the first pitch is a little too vague, is this correct? Aug 19, 2011
Joe Huggins
Grand Junction
Joe Huggins   Grand Junction
I did this,finally,about '95, with my wife.A lot of folks here may be unaware that Fantasia is the route that Royal Robbins writes about in the last chapter of Advanced Rockcraft.All the time on that first pitch,the memory of the terror he described in finessing that slab section was playing in my memory.Many years earlier,I did Roofer Madness with none other than John Rosholt.I think his main motive was because of the name,but for me, as a CO climber,that was a stellar route. Feb 9, 2012
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Climbed this route 9/24/13. After doing most of the easier classics at the Leap, finally got around to this one and it didn't disappoint! As for Pitch 3, the piton shown above the belay is gone and this section appears to be totally runout. I climbed up and down it a bit, finally coming back to the belay and heading over to the right side 5.10a/b variation. For this there is an obvious piton right of the belay, then head straight up on slab, passing a small roof to the next gear waaay above the piton. Its all there, but very exciting. Nov 16, 2013
Michael Dom
  5.9 R
Michael Dom  
  5.9 R
What an adventure! Do yourself a favor and climb this. You only need a single set of cams to 2. It isn't like you will place much gear on this route. I think I placed 12 pieces for the entire route. Sep 16, 2016
Harris Kashtan  
5.9 R
This was a cool climb up until the third pitch. The first two pitches had a lot of run out sections but felt fairly secure. The piton that used to be about 10-15 feet above the 2nd belay appears to have been pulled out, leaving no pro with balancy, insecure 5.9 climbing above. Above that, there is no real pro and a few serious roofs that you end up looking at with no real idea where the route goes. I ended up climbing to the right and finishing Schimitar because I was mentally over it. Jun 13, 2018