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Routes in East Wall

A Few Dollars More. T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
East Corner T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Flying Circus/ Fireworks combo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Labor of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, Mark Haymond, Larry Morris
Page Views: 8,149 total · 53/month
Shared By: Scott "Scoboni" on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

An easy 5.7 climb with the crux coming early in the first pitch at the first bulge. The entire first pitch is easily and well protected. While it probably can be done gracefully, most first timers on this route flop over this bulge. A second bulge comes shortly after the first. For the second bulge transition onto the small ledge to the left and climb around it. The rest of the first pitch is an easy 5.6 climb to a large ledge at the end of the first pitch. There is a walk off the to left down and across exposed low angle slabs at this point if you choose to do so.

The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Climb up the corner/arête on the far right side of the ledge past a protection bolt. Stay slightly to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. It’s not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.

Location

The eastern most climb on the East Wall, look for the light colored patch of rock about one half of the way up the first pitch. (see photo)

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts. 2 Bolt anchor at the end of second pitch

Photos

Frank T  
From the photo, it appears as if it's not truly vertical? Is this the case? Mar 27, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Nowhere close to vertical. Jun 21, 2009
When you get to the first ledge, there is a good crack for setting up a belay right underneath the start of the next pitch. You can find it by looking for the bolt. Otherwise, there are some pretty marginal blocks to set up on.

Making it to the first bolt on the second pitch is definitely scary, but in all actuality not that hard - there are tons of great hands and feet.

During P2, you'll reach a big, comfy ledge. This is where I expected the bolts to be, but they're actually at least 40 feet higher and to the right. There are actually 3 bolts at the end of P2 - one old 1/4 incher and two newer bolts. I clipped all three because the hangers on newer bolts were loose, though the bolts themselves seemed bomber. Sep 28, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I think it's kind of a pile with one move on it. Aug 24, 2010
SKI Ski
Portlandia, OR
 
SKI Ski   Portlandia, OR
 
The bouldery start of the second pitch was really fun, pretty wild. The wideish crux on the first pitch pro's very well. You get a good look at Haystack's roof from this guy. Sep 20, 2010
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.6
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.6
I don't want to be contrary to the person who listed the route, but if you feel the first pitch is the crux and the route is 5.7 I think you are maybe off route or something. The first pitch is a cruise. The moves around the bolt on P2 are the crux and go as a bouldery 5.6, which means hard for 5.6. Pretty good, and easiest route on the east face. Jun 20, 2012
Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.7+
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.7+
The guidebook mentions not leaving your pack on the ground or else risk having a squirrel chew through your bag. Heed this warning even if you don't have food in your bag. Don't learn the hard way like we did! Jun 25, 2012
DARuss
 
DARuss  
 
I really like this climb. I am new to leading trad and found this route easy to set and also very interesting. Also, used almost my whole rack in the first 100 feet of the first pitch. Good thing the top part of the pitch is easy. Nov 2, 2015
felt the crux buldge on pitch 1 was 5.7.

I started the second pitch left of the bolt to not be exposed over the large corner and so your belayer can spot you. If you start out right on larger dikes a fall here onto your belayer would not have a good outcome.

I don't see the need for the bolted anchor (retro?) on pitch 2, just keep climbing and belay when the rope runs out. Jul 25, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.7
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.7
Bring some wide gear to sew up the first pitch if this is your first lead Jul 24, 2018
Junjie Guan
Shenzhen, CN
 
Junjie Guan   Shenzhen, CN
 
A really good warm-up for someone new to trad lead. Aug 4, 2018

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