Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg, J, Sublette (1964)
Page Views: 6,249 total · 44/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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3 pitch climb. Pitch one is in right facing open book. Second pitch is a traverse left. Can be hard to find the route from belay. Go out to left of belay onto face. [You might be tempted to go up the obvious corner instead--don't unless you're looking for a more difficult variation--.] Just head toward bushy ledge, (it'll be the one with 6+ people on it). (belay #2). Look for the biggest dikes to go across. Just follow the dikes and gear placements and don't be tempted to start moving left too soon. Go up a bit before traversing left. Third pitch follows the bottleneck crack to the rim from bushy ledge.


Cams, .5"-3" Nuts 1set.


Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
5.5? You're going to crush some egos there Salamanzier! heh heh!

As stated above, the safe and sane way to do the traverse is to do it high. You can do it lower for a more airy and less well protected experience. Jul 3, 2007
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
This gets a 5.7 in the guide book, which is probably correct if you find the easiest line. We got off route and ended up having to do 4 pitches - 3 at ~ 5.6/5.7 and 1 with a harder move (5.8? 5.9?). Anyways, we hit the harder stuff going straight up / right from the first belay. Go up and left above a fixed pin instead. Tricky route finding on this one, I would only recommend it for solid 5.7 leaders. Sep 21, 2009
Portlandia, OR
SKI Ski   Portlandia, OR
Definitely harder than a 5.5

Protects better than a PG-13 as well.

The airy traverse is wild! DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP ON THE TEMPTING DIKES AFTER PITCH 1! Grab the space between the legs and step out onto the cracked and sparsely vegetated wall. A better route than many would say it is, IMHO. The crack variation to the right of the Bear's Reach line is good-to-go. May 20, 2010
5.5 is a very reasonable rating. Aug 24, 2010
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
Sure, 5.5-5.6 is indeed a reasonable rating...that is, if you are willing to pull on some big, rotten, but juggy features. I graded this thing 5.7 because I thought it a better idea to climb a little harder and not pull on some of the bad rock. Either way, it is a fun route with a few interesting sections. Aug 24, 2010
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.6+? If you do the lower traverse (quality!) it feels 5.7ish and certainly you cannot get any pro except for before and after...seems a little PG13 to me.

I can't speak to the upper traverse or any other variation. Jul 11, 2011
Reno, NV
  5.6 PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.6 PG13
Definitely adventure climbing, and fun too.
I'd say P1 is 5.6, and a bit awkward/weird in places. There's probably a few different ways to attack the corner/blocky flakes. Not difficult, but a bit committing in places.
P2 is great fun, and I'd say also 5.6, but very exposed. I can certainly see how you could get off route and make it harder. From the main belay ledge I stepped left about 6 feet out on to the face then climbed straight up about 35 feet. This follows a crack and protects well. Then I went horizontally left about 30-40 feet along a prominent parallel set of dykes - good feet and hands. I'm not sure if this is considered the high or the low traverse. There are places to place pro on this traverse, but I wouldn't describe it as good - hence I've given it a PG13. At the end of the traverse there are overlapping flakes that I went up diagonally which brings you to the last 15 feet or so of Bears Reach.
Right now there is a bunch of fixed pieces (cams) on P1, and a sling at the belay ledge. I'm guessing 5.6 leaders try this and get scared off. You probably need to be a 5.8 leader to be comfortable on this climb. Aug 31, 2011
Will M.
Will M.   Oakland
5.5? heh. 5.6 climbing with 5.9 route finding, perhaps! Sep 5, 2011
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
Route climbing is straightforward. Just remember on the second pitch, you are trying to go left on dikes. Sep 5, 2011
5.6 PG13
5.6 PG13
In my less than humble opinion...this route's a solid 5.6. I've soloed it at least 3 times and taught many a new leader on this route. The horizontal dike runout alone ( while using the hole in the flake as natural pro) confirms the original ratings.

That's my .02 worth.

K. Mar 3, 2012
Rocklin, Ca
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
This is a fun route, done it a few times, depending on which line you choose I think it is 5.6, with the potential for some 5.7 direct variations, but the moves below the small roof on P3 are def 5.6. I never thought this route to be difficult to protect. Jun 20, 2012
Angie C
Mount Vernon, Wa
Angie C   Mount Vernon, Wa
Following the super traverse on P2 could be psychologically challenging for a newbie with the potential for pendulum. Fortunately, the climbing is quite easy. I have seen a handful of people exhausted/annoyed with the seemingly unending traverse on P2.

Many people at the group belay ledge after P2 commented on how they were amazed at the super traverse we did from the start of the climb. If you want to do a lot of traversing, this is your climb.

Also, do the 5.9 variation at the very end of P3 if you want to end on a fun note! Oct 1, 2012
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
  5.7 PG13
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
  5.7 PG13
I honestly thought the little bulge move on pitch 3 was the hardest at 5.7 Mar 7, 2013
Ted Sumers
  5.7 PG13
Ted Sumers  
  5.7 PG13
super fun-- don't go up the corner on the second pitch, though-- i did and would call the moves solid 5.9 PG13 on semi-chossy rock.

otherwise an adventurous romp up the wall. Aug 26, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7 PG13
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7 PG13
Excellent, with 3 good and contrasting pitches.

In UK terms the grade would be mild VS: P1 4c [for the tricky initial move], P2 4a/b, P3 4c. P2 is technically the easiest but in some ways is the hardest to lead, due to the route-finding and exciting positions. Unless you're tall and/or unfazed by the big drop beneath you, getting started on P2 - moving out left, then balancing up to get hold of the improving dikes - may require a few deep breaths before you get moving! Oct 3, 2014
Skyline Lau
San Francisco
Skyline Lau   San Francisco
Super fun route. The crux for me was the lay back move right before the the second ledge on the second pitch (can probably be the first pitch too).

Once on the second ledge, I moved out left to the super fun exposed face, climbed up about 5 feet, and then proceeded to traverse. Hand holds and feet placements are solid.

The only issue I had was the massive amount of rope drag on the second pitch where I ended up using all the force in my legs to pull the rope while edging on dikes in order to move. I think we should have anchored on the second ledge (note: smaller) to prevent the rope drag. That also would have made communication with your belayer easier too. Also, this route just has way too many options on the second pitch, making easy to go off route to a multitude of grade variations.

I would say 5.6 with a 5.7 crux, but more like a 5.wtf-I-can't-move! for me. Mar 30, 2015
Burlen Loring
Albany, CA
Burlen Loring   Albany, CA
A fun route! Topo is spot on, route finding isn't so bad if you pay close attention to the details given. traverses feel exposed but dikes give good feet and hands. One or two committing moves in there. Oct 2, 2016
Fun route, first pitch sustained, second pitch adventurous, third pitch cruiser. Jul 26, 2017
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I led this route yesterday after having first led it back in 00. The first time I led it I did the lower traverse which is exciting and runout. This time I did the higher traverse which protects better but is a bit less exciting. Pick your pleasure. Either way this is a fun route. Since my memory is still fresh on the high traverse I can say that to do it involves stepping left from the first belay ledge and then gaining the crack near the bush by either traversing, or stepping up on the dikes. From there continue up to another nice crack which is nearly directly above your belayer. I didn't place any pro here so as not to have rope drag as I worked my way back up and left through a series of flakes and cracks. At some point you'll see a pin you can clip. Make a move around the last of the flakes and you'll be at a short traverse that will lead you to the second belay which is shared with at least two other routes so there may be a bit of a conga line there. Enjoy Jul 8, 2018