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Routes in Flagpole Peak

Jam Session T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kangaroo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ramp, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J. Bowlin, Jim Day, Jim Orey, 1979.
Page Views: 176 total, 1/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This spectacular route ascends the Wall left of the second pitch of "Jam Session".
Easy climbing gains the ledge at the base of the second pitch of "Jam Session".
Move down and left to an alcove capped by a roof. Climb the offwidth out of the alcove (5.10) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb up and left , past 3 bolts to a two bolt belay.
Traverse right to a pillar, move up then left on knobs to a bolt. Curve up and left to the left side of the face.
Continue to the top.

Protection

Pro to 4", Slings for knobs, draws.

Photos

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Tom Ketchup
COOL
  5.10+
Tom Ketchup   COOL
  5.10+
All the bolts on this climb were replaced on 9/24. Excellent route with great views and now it sports modern protection.. What are you waiting for?! Sep 25, 2017
Climbed on 9/10/17.

P1 - We started directly below the alcove rather than climbing the first pitch of Jam Session and down climbing left (as described in the route description); mostly easy climbing with a 5.8/5.9 finger move to gain the alcove. Gear anchor.

P2 - The offwidth/roof moves out of the alcove are spectacular and exposed (5.10); protects very well with a #4 camalot. Good rest after the offwidth, then its knob-slinging and rusty old bolts. There is a pair of old bolts just above the offwidth if you want to break up the route to avoid rope drag (or leave biners and rap off), but there are no nearby knobs for backing up your rusty bolt anchor. We continued up and left on to the face, through three bolts and some knob-slings, to the next pair of bolts. I backed up the anchor with a decent knob sling.

P3 - Traverse right through bolts. One section of surprisingly tricky 5.10 slab moves protected by a questionable bolt, then up through more moderate face climbing with mostly knob-slings for pro. You can take it as far as you want from there, then scramble to the top.

Sweeping views of Tahoe to the north and Echo Lakes to the south. A worthy top-out. Easy scramble down. Great route, just be ready to handle some bolts of questionable quality. Sep 20, 2017